Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"

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Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
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==Introduction==
 
==Introduction==
  
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This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
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This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2017) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
  
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
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For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
 
For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
 
* pages of Wikipedia
 
* pages of Wikipedia
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* pages of the Australian coastal website http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/index.jsp
+
* pages of the Australian coastal website https://ozcoasts.org.au/
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* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/Publicaties/deltafact.aspx?pId=1739
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* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website https://www.stowa.nl/deltafacts
 +
* pages on the website of Leo van Rijn https://www.leovanrijn-sediment.com/
  
 +
See also: [[Definitions of coastal terms]].
  
 
== Coastal hydrodynamics ==
 
== Coastal hydrodynamics ==
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* [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Methods&Techniques]]
 
* [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Methods&Techniques]]
 
* [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Implementation & Results]]
 
* [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Implementation & Results]]
 +
* [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]]
 +
* [[Linear regression analysis of coastal processes]]
 +
* [[Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions]]
 +
* [[Wavelet analysis of coastal processes]]
 +
* [[Artificial Neural Networks and coastal applications]]
 +
* [[Data interpolation with Kriging]]
  
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'''Coastal Wiki gap'''
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
 
* [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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* [[Waves]] - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
+
* [[Shallow-water wave theory]]  
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
 
* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
 
* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
−
* [[Infragravity waves]]  
+
* [[Infragravity waves]]
 +
* [[Tsunami]]
 +
* [[Wave run-up]]
 +
* [[Wave set-up]]
 +
* [[Breaker index]]
 +
* [[Harbor resonance]]
 +
* [[Proudman resonance and meteo tsunamis]]
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
−
* [[Wave transformation]] needs expansion with general introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, shoaling, setdown, wave breaking, roller energy, setup, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas, models
+
* [[Waves]] – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.
−
* [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
+
* [[Wave transformation]] , see [[Shallow-water wave theory]]
 
* [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
 
* [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
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* [[Types of ocean wave]] -  progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy
 
−
* [[Wave theory]] – introduction, linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory, solitary waves, Cnoidal waves, wave asymmetry and skewness
 
 
* [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum  
 
* [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum  
−
* [[Wave refraction, diffraction and reflection]] - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
+
* [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] – extension of [[Shallow-water wave theory]] with more detailed treatment of propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation mechanisms, breaking criteria, roller energy, wave asymmetry and skewness, cnoidal waves, solitary waves, observations, empirical formulas, models
−
* [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas
 
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
−
* [[Wave runup]] – theory, models, wave overtopping, practical formulas
+
* [[Wave impact]] – stability of structures under wave attack
−
* [[Tsunamis]] - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
 
−
* [[Wave impact]] – lift force on structures, impact, practical formulas
 
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
* [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 
* [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 +
* [[Internal waves]]
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Ocean and shelf tides]]
 
* [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]  
 
* [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]  
 +
* [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]]
 +
* [[Tidal bore dynamics]]
  
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
−
* [[Tides]] needs revision 
 
−
* [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
 
 
* [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact  
 
* [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact  
  
−
 
−
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
−
* [[Tides in the oceans]]
 
−
* [[Tidal asymmetry]] – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
 
−
* [[Tidal bores]]- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone  
 
* [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone  
 +
* [[Rip current]]
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
−
* [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents
+
* [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents  
 +
* [[Measuring current fields in the German Bight by radar techniques]]
 +
* [[Application of radar hydrography in the German Wadden Sea]]
 
* [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 
* [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 
* [[Bedforms and roughness]]
 
* [[Bedforms and roughness]]
 
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]  
 
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]  
−
+
* [[Dam break flow]]
−
 
 
−
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
−
* [[Longshore current]] – definition needs expansion: generation of longshore currents, theory, practical formulas 
 
−
* [[Rip currents]] - definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management   
 
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Wind driven currents]] – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
 
* [[Wind driven currents]] – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
 +
* [[Tidal currents]] - currents in inlets and estuaries: 1D, 2D log profile, boundary layer, eddy viscosity, bed shear stress, convergent channels, reflected wave, channel bends, choked inlets
 
* [[Density-driven currents]] – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
 
* [[Density-driven currents]] – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
 
* [[Turbulence]] – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length
 
* [[Turbulence]] – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length
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'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
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* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity]
 
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]
 
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill]
 
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill]
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* [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]]  
 
* [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]]  
 
* [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
 
* [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
 +
* [[Shoreline management]]
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
−
*   [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
+
* [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
 
* [[Flood risk]] general article
 
* [[Flood risk]] general article
 
* [[Risk management strategies]] general article   
 
* [[Risk management strategies]] general article   
 +
* [[Copulas]] - Joint probability distribution of wave heights and water levels
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Coastal and marine sediments]]
 
* [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] series of articles on sediment transport measurement, with many subtopics  
 
* [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] series of articles on sediment transport measurement, with many subtopics  
 
* [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]  
 
* [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
 
* [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
 +
* [[Estuarine turbidity maximum]]
 
* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
* [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] - introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments  
 
* [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] - introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments  
−
 
+
* [[Wave ripples]]
−
 
+
* [[Wave ripple formation]]
−
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
−
* [[Sediment]] -  needs update with links to specific topics
 
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
−
* [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
 
−
* [[Graded beds]] – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
 
 
* [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
 
* [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
 
* [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 
* [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
−
* [[Wave ripples]] - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
 
−
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 
−
* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
 
−
* [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling
 
−
 
−
 
−
'''External references'''
 
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/turbidity.jsp Turbidity]
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
* [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
+
* [[Classification of sandy coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
−
* [[Coastal zone characteristics]] - introduction to different coastal types
+
* [[Characteristics of sedimentary shores]] - introduction to different coastal types
−
* [[Classification of coastal profiles]]
+
* [[Active coastal zone]]
 +
* [[Closure depth]]
 +
* [[Shoreface profile]]
 +
* [[Nearshore sandbars]]
 
* [[Swash zone dynamics]]  
 
* [[Swash zone dynamics]]  
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
−
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
+
* [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
−
* [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]]
+
* [[Embayed beaches]] - morphodynamics and equilibrium planform of beaches that are semi-enclosed by headlands or groynes
 +
* [[Coastal mud belt]]
 +
* [[Dune development]]
 +
* [[Sand spit]]
  
  
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* [[Wave-dominated coast]] general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels  
 
* [[Wave-dominated coast]] general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels  
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
−
* [[Mud coasts]]  (or [[Fluvial-dominated coasts]] ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
+
* [[Fluvial-dominated coasts]] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
−
* [[Equilibrium coastal profile]] – empirical models, theoretical background, applicability
 
 
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices  
 
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices  
−
* [[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
 
−
* [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
 
−
* [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform, shoreline rotation
 
 
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
* [[Reef systems]]
 
* [[Reef systems]]
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'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
+
* [https://ozcoasts.org.au/conceptual-diagrams/science-models/beaches/ OzCoast Beaches]
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches]
 
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]
 
−
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration]
 
−
 
 
−
 
 
  
 
===Deltas, estuaries and lagoons===
 
===Deltas, estuaries and lagoons===
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* [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
 
* [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
 
* [[Siltation in harbors and fairways]]
 
* [[Siltation in harbors and fairways]]
−
* [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]]
 
 
* [[Salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
−
* [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
+
* [[Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes]]
−
 
+
* [[Restoration of salt marshes and mudflats]]
 +
* [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]]
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
−
* [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] – introduction to different types of estuaries
 
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 +
* [[Salt marsh morphodynamics]] – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics 
 
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics  
 
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics  
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
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* [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
 
* [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
−
* [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
+
* [[Tidal channel morphodynamics]] –alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
 
* [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]]
 
* [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]]
 
* [[Estuary channelization]] - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
 
* [[Estuary channelization]] - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
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'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys]
+
* [https://ozcoasts.org.au/conceptual-diagrams/science-models/geomorphic/ OzCoast Deltas]
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] 
 
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]
 
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas]
 
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics]
 
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks]
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
* [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]]  
+
* [[Bathymetry German Bight from X-band radar]]  
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
* [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
 
* [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
 
* [[Instruments for bed level detection]]
 
* [[Instruments for bed level detection]]
−
* [[Space geodetic techniques for coastal zone monitoring]]
 
 
* [[Argus applications]]
 
* [[Argus applications]]
 
* [[Argus image types and conventions]]
 
* [[Argus image types and conventions]]
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* [[Argus video]]
 
* [[Argus video]]
 
* [[Argus video monitoring system]]
 
* [[Argus video monitoring system]]
−
* [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
+
* [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]]
  
  
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* [[Beach Cusps]]
 
* [[Beach Cusps]]
 
* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
 
* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
−
* [[Process-based modelling]]
 
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
−
* [[Geomorphological analysis]]
 
 
* [[Behaviour-based models]]  
 
* [[Behaviour-based models]]  
−
* [[Parametric equilibrium models]]
+
* [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]]  
−
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]]  
 
 
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
 
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
  
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
* [[Coastline instability]] - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
 
* [[Coastline instability]] - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
−
* [[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
+
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] – extension of [[Bedforms and roughness]] with a more detailed treatment of the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
−
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
 
 
* [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
 
* [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
−
* [[Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone]] – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes  
+
* [[Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone]] – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes
−
 
 
  
 
===Coastal erosion===
 
===Coastal erosion===
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
* [[Bruun rule]]
+
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]  
−
* [[Closure depth]]
 
−
* [[Types and background of coastal erosion]]  
 
 
* [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]  
 
* [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]  
 
* [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]]  
 
* [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]]  
−
* [[Typical examples of structural erosion]]
+
* [[Port breakwaters and coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Dune erosion]]
 
* [[Dune erosion]]
 
* [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]
 
* [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]
 +
* [[Dealing with coastal erosion]]
 +
* [[Shoreline management]]
  
  
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* [[Shoreline prediction]] – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
 
* [[Shoreline prediction]] – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
 
* [[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale
 
* [[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale
−
 
−
 
−
'''External references'''
 
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/beach_erosion.jsp Beach erosion]
 
−
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Sea level rise]]
 
* [[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
 
* [[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]  
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]  
−
* [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]].
+
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]
 +
* [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]]
 +
* [[Ocean circulation]]
 +
* [[Thermohaline circulation of the oceans]]
 +
* [[Coastal ocean satellite altimetry]]
  
  
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* [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
 
* [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
 
* [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale  
 
* [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale  
−
* [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]]
 
 
* [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
 
* [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
  
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== Coastal protection and engineering ==
 
== Coastal protection and engineering ==
  
−
* [[Hard shoreline protection structures]]
+
===Hard measures===
−
* [[Protection against coastal erosion]]
+
* [[Hard coastal protection structures]]
−
* [[Hard structures and structural erosion]]
 
−
* [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
 
* [[Groynes]]
 
* [[Groynes]]
 
* [[Groynes as shore protection]]
 
* [[Groynes as shore protection]]
 
* [[Deteriorated groynes]]  
 
* [[Deteriorated groynes]]  
 
* [[Detached breakwaters]]  
 
* [[Detached breakwaters]]  
 +
* [[Applicability of detached breakwaters]]
 
* [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]]  
 
* [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]]  
−
* [[Application of breakwaters]]  
+
* [[Application of breakwaters]]
−
* [[Floating breakwaters]]
+
* [[Revetments]]
−
* [[Perched beaches]]  
 
 
* [[Seawalls and revetments]]  
 
* [[Seawalls and revetments]]  
 
* [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
 
* [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
−
* [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]]  
+
* [[Bulkheads]]
−
* [[Artificial reefs]]  
+
* [[Artificial reefs]]
−
* [[Natural barriers]]  
+
* [[Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments]]
 +
 
 +
===Soft measures===
 +
* [[Natural shore protecting barriers]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
 
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
* [[Beach nourishment]]  
 
* [[Beach nourishment]]  
−
* [[Artificial nourishment]]   
+
* [[Shoreface nourishment]]   
 
* [[Shore nourishment]]  
 
* [[Shore nourishment]]  
 
* [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]]  
 
* [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]]  
 +
* [[Floating breakwaters]]
 +
* [[Perched beaches]]
 
* [[Beach drainage]]
 
* [[Beach drainage]]
 +
* [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
* [[Sand dune types - Europe]]  
 
* [[Sand dune types - Europe]]  
−
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]  
+
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]
 +
* [[Shore protection vegetation]]
 +
 
 +
===Wind and wave energy===
 
* [[Wave energy converters]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
Line 406: Line 399:
 
* [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
 
* [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
 
* [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
 
* [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
−
* [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 +
* [[Use of mud in coastal structures]]
 
* [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] -  introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
 
* [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] -  introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
 
* [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
 
* [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
Line 423: Line 416:
  
  
−
 
+
[[Category:Coastal protection]]
−
[[Category:Land and ocean interactions]]
+
[[Category:Physical coastal and marine processes]]
−
[[Category:Coastal processes, interactions and resources]]
 
−
[[Category:Geomorphological processes and natural coastal features]]
 
−
[[Category:Geological processes, soil and minerals]]
 
−
[[Category:Sediment shorelines]]
 
−
[[Category:Hydrodynamics]]
 
−
[[Category:Hydrological processes and water]]
 
−
[[Category:Coastal and marine natural environment]]
 
−
[[Category:Estuaries and tidal rivers]]
 
−
[[Category:Salt marshes]]
 
−
[[Category:Manual sediment transport measurements]]
 
−
[[Category:Coastal erosion]]
 
−
[[Category:Coastal erosion management]]
 
−
[[Category:Shoreline management]]
 
−
[[Category:Protection of coastal and marine zones]]
 
−
[[Category:Coastal flooding]]
 
−
[[Category:Coastal flooding management]]
 
−
[[Category:Coastal defence]]
 
−
[[Category:Coastal structures]]
 
−
[[Category:Techniques and methods in coastal management]]
 
−
[[Category:Policy and decision making in coastal management]]
 
−
[[Category:Practice, projects and case studies in coastal management]]
 
−
[[Category:Coastal and marine information and knowledge management]]
 
−
[[Category:Evaluation and assessment in coastal management]]
 
−
[[Category:Remote Sensing in Coastal and Marine Research]]
 
−
[[Category:Climate change and global warming]]
 
−
[[Category:Theme 5]]
 

Latest revision as of 16:21, 20 May 2024

Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering



Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2017) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:

See also: Definitions of coastal terms.

Coastal hydrodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles

Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)


Waves

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Waves – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.
  • Wave transformation , see Shallow-water wave theory
  • Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Tides

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact


External references


Currents

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
  • Tidal currents - currents in inlets and estuaries: 1D, 2D log profile, boundary layer, eddy viscosity, bed shear stress, convergent channels, reflected wave, channel bends, choked inlets
  • Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
  • Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length


Transport and mixing processes

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Flood risk

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal sediments and sediment transport

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal morphology

Wave-dominated coasts

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  • Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Typology of coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
  • Wave-dominated coast general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
  • Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
  • Fluvial-dominated coasts - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
  • Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction
  • Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
  • Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
  • Reef systems


External references

Deltas, estuaries and lagoons

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
  • Salt marsh morphodynamics – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics
  • Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
  • Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
  • Characteristics of muddy coasts - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology.


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Coastal morphology measuring techniques

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
  • Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness – extension of Bedforms and roughness with a more detailed treatment of the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
  • Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
  • Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes

Coastal erosion

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
  • Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
  • Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal protection and engineering

Hard measures

Soft measures

Wind and wave energy


Incomplete articles

  • Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references

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