Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"
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| − | + | Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering | |
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| − | == | + | ==Introduction== |
| − | + | This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2017) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8. | |
| − | + | The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). | |
| + | Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics. | ||
| + | For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular: | ||
| + | * pages of Wikipedia | ||
| + | * pages of the Australian coastal website https://ozcoasts.org.au/ | ||
| + | * pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website https://www.stowa.nl/deltafacts | ||
| + | * pages on the website of Leo van Rijn https://www.leovanrijn-sediment.com/ | ||
| − | + | See also: [[Definitions of coastal terms]]. | |
| − | + | == Coastal hydrodynamics == | |
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Hydrodynamic modelling]] | ||
| + | * [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]] | ||
| + | * [[How to apply models]] | ||
| + | * [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]] | ||
| + | * [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Methods&Techniques]] | ||
| + | * [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Implementation & Results]] | ||
| + | * [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]] | ||
| + | * [[Linear regression analysis of coastal processes]] | ||
| + | * [[Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions]] | ||
| + | * [[Wavelet analysis of coastal processes]] | ||
| + | * [[Artificial Neural Networks and coastal applications]] | ||
| + | * [[Data interpolation with Kriging]] | ||
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles) | ||
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| − | + | ===Waves=== | |
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Shallow-water wave theory]] | ||
| + | * [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique | ||
| + | * [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]] | ||
| + | * [[Infragravity waves]] | ||
| + | * [[Tsunami]] | ||
| + | * [[Wave run-up]] | ||
| + | * [[Wave set-up]] | ||
| + | * [[Breaker index]] | ||
| + | * [[Harbor resonance]] | ||
| + | * [[Proudman resonance and meteo tsunamis]] | ||
| − | + | '''Incomplete articles''' | |
| + | * [[Waves]] – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves. | ||
| + | * [[Wave transformation]] , see [[Shallow-water wave theory]] | ||
| + | * [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves | ||
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| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum | ||
| + | * [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] – extension of [[Shallow-water wave theory]] with more detailed treatment of propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation mechanisms, breaking criteria, roller energy, wave asymmetry and skewness, cnoidal waves, solitary waves, observations, empirical formulas, models | ||
| + | * [[Wave-current interaction]] | ||
| + | * [[Wave impact]] – stability of structures under wave attack | ||
| + | * [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash | ||
| + | * [[Wave modelling]] - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics | ||
| + | * [[Internal waves]] | ||
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| − | + | '''External references''' | |
| + | * [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves] | ||
| + | * [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory] | ||
| + | * [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave] | ||
| + | * [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave] | ||
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| + | ===Tides=== | ||
| + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | ||
| + | * [[Ocean and shelf tides]] | ||
| + | * [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]] | ||
| + | * [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]] | ||
| + | * [[Tidal bore dynamics]] | ||
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| − | + | '''Incomplete articles''' | |
| + | * [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact | ||
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| − | + | '''External references''' | |
| + | * [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides Theory of tides] | ||
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===Currents=== | ===Currents=== | ||
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone | ||
| + | * [[Rip current]] | ||
| + | * [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents | ||
| + | * [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents | ||
| + | * [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents | ||
| + | * [[Measuring current fields in the German Bight by radar techniques]] | ||
| + | * [[Application of radar hydrography in the German Wadden Sea]] | ||
| + | * [[Coriolis acceleration]] | ||
| + | * [[Bedforms and roughness]] | ||
| + | * [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]] | ||
| + | * [[Dam break flow]] | ||
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| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Wind driven currents]] – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory | ||
| + | * [[Tidal currents]] - currents in inlets and estuaries: 1D, 2D log profile, boundary layer, eddy viscosity, bed shear stress, convergent channels, reflected wave, channel bends, choked inlets | ||
| + | * [[Density-driven currents]] – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling | ||
| + | * [[Turbulence]] – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length | ||
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| − | + | ==Transport and mixing processes== | |
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]] | ||
| + | * [[Estuarine circulation]] | ||
| + | * [[Salt wedge estuaries]] | ||
| + | * [[Dynamics and structure of the water and matter ex-change between the Wadden Sea and the German Bight]] | ||
| + | * [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]] | ||
| + | * [[Shelf sea exchange with the ocean]] | ||
| + | * [[Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea]] | ||
| + | * [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] | ||
| + | * [[Oil spill monitoring]] | ||
| + | * [[Water quality services GMES - MarCoast in Germany]] | ||
| + | '''Incomplete articles''' | ||
| + | * [[Stratification]] – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing | ||
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| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]] - introduction to concepts and processes, field studies, modelling, ecosystem implications | ||
| + | * [[River plume dynamics]] - introduction to major physical processes, observation methods, field examples and practical simulation models | ||
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| − | + | '''External references''' | |
| + | * [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion] | ||
| + | * [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill] | ||
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| − | + | ==Flood risk== | |
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| − | + | * [[Chances and risks]] | |
| + | * [[Extreme storms]] | ||
| + | * [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]] | ||
| + | * [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]] | ||
| + | * [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]] | ||
| + | * [[Shoreline management]] | ||
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| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Extreme event analysis]] - Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period | ||
| + | * [[Flood risk]] general article | ||
| + | * [[Risk management strategies]] general article | ||
| + | * [[Copulas]] - Joint probability distribution of wave heights and water levels | ||
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| − | + | == Coastal sediments and sediment transport== | |
| + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | ||
| + | * [[Coastal and marine sediments]] | ||
| + | * [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] series of articles on sediment transport measurement, with many subtopics | ||
| + | * [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]] | ||
| + | * [[Dynamics of mud transport]] | ||
| + | * [[Estuarine turbidity maximum]] | ||
| + | * [[Sand transport]] | ||
| + | * [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]] | ||
| + | * [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] - introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments | ||
| + | * [[Wave ripples]] | ||
| + | * [[Wave ripple formation]] | ||
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Sediment budget coastal systems]] | ||
| + | * [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas | ||
| + | * [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling | ||
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| − | + | ==Coastal morphology== | |
| − | + | ===Wave-dominated coasts=== | |
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Classification of sandy coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development), barrier formation; effect of development | ||
| + | * [[Characteristics of sedimentary shores]] - introduction to different coastal types | ||
| + | * [[Active coastal zone]] | ||
| + | * [[Closure depth]] | ||
| + | * [[Shoreface profile]] | ||
| + | * [[Nearshore sandbars]] | ||
| + | * [[Swash zone dynamics]] | ||
| + | * [[Gravel Beaches]] | ||
| + | * [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas | ||
| + | * [[Embayed beaches]] - morphodynamics and equilibrium planform of beaches that are semi-enclosed by headlands or groynes | ||
| + | * [[Coastal mud belt]] | ||
| + | * [[Dune development]] | ||
| + | * [[Sand spit]] | ||
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| − | + | '''Incomplete articles''' | |
| + | * [[Rocky shore morphology]] – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc. | ||
| + | * [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation | ||
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| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Typology of coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes | ||
| + | * [[Wave-dominated coast]] general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels | ||
| + | * [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise | ||
| + | * [[Fluvial-dominated coasts]] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise | ||
| + | * [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction | ||
| + | * [[Coastal barrier formation]] - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices | ||
| + | * [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts | ||
| + | * [[Reef systems]] | ||
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| − | + | '''External references''' | |
| + | * [https://ozcoasts.org.au/conceptual-diagrams/science-models/beaches/ OzCoast Beaches] | ||
| − | + | ===Deltas, estuaries and lagoons=== | |
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples | ||
| + | * [[Wave-dominated river deltas]] | ||
| + | * [[Estuarine morphological modelling]] | ||
| + | * [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]] | ||
| + | * [[Siltation in harbors and fairways]] | ||
| + | * [[Salt marshes]] | ||
| + | * [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]] | ||
| + | * [[Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes]] | ||
| + | * [[Restoration of salt marshes and mudflats]] | ||
| + | * [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]] | ||
| − | + | '''Incomplete articles''' | |
| + | * [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology | ||
| + | * [[Salt marsh morphodynamics]] – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics | ||
| + | * [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics | ||
| + | * [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice | ||
| + | * [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]] - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology. | ||
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| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Rias]] – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics | ||
| + | * [[Tidal lagoons]] – evolution, morphodynamics | ||
| + | * [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise | ||
| + | * [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics | ||
| + | * [[Tidal channel morphodynamics]] –alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation | ||
| + | * [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]] | ||
| + | * [[Estuary channelization]] - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling | ||
| + | * [[Tidal flat reclamation]] – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration | ||
| + | * [[ICZM issues in estuaries]] | ||
| + | * [[Bio-geomorphology of salt marshes]] – landscape dynamics of salt marshes resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes | ||
| − | + | '''External references''' | |
| + | * [https://ozcoasts.org.au/conceptual-diagrams/science-models/geomorphic/ OzCoast Deltas] | ||
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| + | ===Coastal morphology measuring techniques=== | ||
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Bathymetry German Bight from X-band radar]] | ||
| + | * [[Data processing and output of Lidar]] | ||
| + | * [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]] | ||
| + | * [[Instruments for bed level detection]] | ||
| + | * [[Argus applications]] | ||
| + | * [[Argus image types and conventions]] | ||
| + | * [[Argus standard image processing]] | ||
| + | * [[Argus video]] | ||
| + | * [[Argus video monitoring system]] | ||
| + | * [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]] | ||
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| − | + | ===Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation=== | |
| − | [[ | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' |
| + | * [[Stability models]] | ||
| + | * [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] | ||
| + | * [[Beach Cusps]] | ||
| + | * [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]] | ||
| + | * [[Process-based morphological models]] | ||
| + | * [[Behaviour-based models]] | ||
| + | * [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]] | ||
| + | * [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]] | ||
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| + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | ||
| + | * [[Coastline instability]] - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management | ||
| + | * [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] – extension of [[Bedforms and roughness]] with a more detailed treatment of the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport | ||
| + | * [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules | ||
| + | * [[Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone]] – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes | ||
===Coastal erosion=== | ===Coastal erosion=== | ||
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]] | ||
| + | * [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]] | ||
| + | * [[Human causes of coastal erosion]] | ||
| + | * [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]] | ||
| + | * [[Port breakwaters and coastal erosion]] | ||
| + | * [[Dune erosion]] | ||
| + | * [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]] | ||
| + | * [[Dealing with coastal erosion]] | ||
| + | * [[Shoreline management]] | ||
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| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Shoreline prediction]] – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management | ||
| + | * [[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale | ||
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| − | + | ===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change=== | |
| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki articles''' | |
| + | * [[Sea level rise]] | ||
| + | * [[Geomorphological time scales and processes]] | ||
| + | * [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]] | ||
| + | * [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]] | ||
| + | * [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]] | ||
| + | * [[Ocean circulation]] | ||
| + | * [[Thermohaline circulation of the oceans]] | ||
| + | * [[Coastal ocean satellite altimetry]] | ||
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| − | + | '''Incomplete articles''' | |
| + | * [[Geomorphology]] – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles | ||
| + | * [[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic | ||
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| − | [[Climate change]] - | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' |
| + | * [[Climate change impacts]] general article with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change | ||
| + | * [[Stratigraphy of coastal systems]] – introduction to depositional/erosional seabed structures, relation with depositional and erosional processes, long-term morphodynamic processes, response to sea-level rise | ||
| + | * [[Long-term coastal evolution]] - introduction to evolution of sedimentary coasts during the Holocene, processes and interactions, modelling, response to future sea-level rise, implications for coastal management | ||
| + | * [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating | ||
| + | * [[Sea level change]] - indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change | ||
| + | * [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale | ||
| + | * [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]] | ||
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| − | + | == Coastal protection and engineering == | |
| − | + | ===Hard measures=== | |
| + | * [[Hard coastal protection structures]] | ||
| + | * [[Groynes]] | ||
| + | * [[Groynes as shore protection]] | ||
| + | * [[Deteriorated groynes]] | ||
| + | * [[Detached breakwaters]] | ||
| + | * [[Applicability of detached breakwaters]] | ||
| + | * [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]] | ||
| + | * [[Application of breakwaters]] | ||
| + | * [[Revetments]] | ||
| + | * [[Seawalls and revetments]] | ||
| + | * [[Overtopping resistant dikes]] | ||
| + | * [[Bulkheads]] | ||
| + | * [[Artificial reefs]] | ||
| + | * [[Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments]] | ||
| + | ===Soft measures=== | ||
| + | * [[Natural shore protecting barriers]] | ||
| + | * [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]] | ||
| + | * [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]] | ||
| + | * [[Beach nourishment]] | ||
| + | * [[Shoreface nourishment]] | ||
| + | * [[Shore nourishment]] | ||
| + | * [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]] | ||
| + | * [[Floating breakwaters]] | ||
| + | * [[Perched beaches]] | ||
| + | * [[Beach drainage]] | ||
| + | * [[Sand by-pass systems]] | ||
| + | * [[Sand dune types - Europe]] | ||
| + | * [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]] | ||
| + | * [[Shore protection vegetation]] | ||
| + | ===Wind and wave energy=== | ||
| + | * [[Wave energy converters]] | ||
| + | * [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]] | ||
| + | * [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]] | ||
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| − | + | '''Incomplete articles''' | |
| + | * [[Dredging]] needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact | ||
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| − | + | '''Coastal Wiki gaps''' | |
| + | * [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]] | ||
| + | * [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change | ||
| + | * [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials | ||
| + | * [[Use of mud in coastal structures]] | ||
| + | * [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] - introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines | ||
| + | * [[Estuary engineering]] - deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [ | ||
| + | * [[Tidal power]] – introduction to methods for tidal energy exploitation, practical experience | ||
| + | * [[Marine wind energy]] introduction to methods and conditions for sustainable and efficient exploitation (technical, financial, environmental) | ||
| + | * [[Examples of marine wind farms]] – practical experience | ||
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| − | + | '''External references''' | |
| + | * [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Sand_nourishments?rId=53 Sand nourishment] | ||
| + | * [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/The_beneficial_re_use_of_dredged_material?rId=52 Reuse of dredged material] | ||
| + | * [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Managed_realignment?rId=51 Managed realignment] | ||
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| − | + | [[Category:Coastal protection]] | |
| + | [[Category:Physical coastal and marine processes]] | ||
Latest revision as of 16:21, 20 May 2024
Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
Contents
Introduction
This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2017) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.
For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
- pages of Wikipedia
- pages of the Australian coastal website https://ozcoasts.org.au/
- pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website https://www.stowa.nl/deltafacts
- pages on the website of Leo van Rijn https://www.leovanrijn-sediment.com/
See also: Definitions of coastal terms.
Coastal hydrodynamics
Coastal Wiki articles
- Hydrodynamic modelling
- Modelling coastal hydrodynamics
- How to apply models
- Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)
- Using model simulations to support monitoring - Methods&Techniques
- Using model simulations to support monitoring - Implementation & Results
- Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone
- Linear regression analysis of coastal processes
- Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions
- Wavelet analysis of coastal processes
- Artificial Neural Networks and coastal applications
- Data interpolation with Kriging
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
Waves
Coastal Wiki articles
- Shallow-water wave theory
- Waves and currents by X-band radar - wave measurement technique
- Using satellite data for global wave forecasts
- Infragravity waves
- Tsunami
- Wave run-up
- Wave set-up
- Breaker index
- Harbor resonance
- Proudman resonance and meteo tsunamis
Incomplete articles
- Waves – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.
- Wave transformation , see Shallow-water wave theory
- Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Wind wave generation – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum
- Wave transformation in the nearshore – extension of Shallow-water wave theory with more detailed treatment of propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation mechanisms, breaking criteria, roller energy, wave asymmetry and skewness, cnoidal waves, solitary waves, observations, empirical formulas, models
- Wave-current interaction
- Wave impact – stability of structures under wave attack
- Ship waves - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
- Wave modelling - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
- Internal waves
External references
Tides
Coastal Wiki articles
- Ocean and shelf tides
- Tidal motion in shelf seas
- Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics
- Tidal bore dynamics
Incomplete articles
- Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact
External references
Currents
Coastal Wiki articles
- Currents introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone
- Rip current
- Waves and currents by X-band radar - measurement method of currents
- Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods - measurement method of currents
- Use of ground based radar in hydrography - measurement method of currents
- Measuring current fields in the German Bight by radar techniques
- Application of radar hydrography in the German Wadden Sea
- Coriolis acceleration
- Bedforms and roughness
- Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries
- Dam break flow
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
- Tidal currents - currents in inlets and estuaries: 1D, 2D log profile, boundary layer, eddy viscosity, bed shear stress, convergent channels, reflected wave, channel bends, choked inlets
- Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
- Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length
Transport and mixing processes
Coastal Wiki articles
- Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries
- Estuarine circulation
- Salt wedge estuaries
- Dynamics and structure of the water and matter ex-change between the Wadden Sea and the German Bight
- Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water
- Shelf sea exchange with the ocean
- Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea
- Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution
- Oil spill monitoring
- Water quality services GMES - MarCoast in Germany
Incomplete articles
- Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas - introduction to concepts and processes, field studies, modelling, ecosystem implications
- River plume dynamics - introduction to major physical processes, observation methods, field examples and practical simulation models
External references
Flood risk
Coastal Wiki articles
- Chances and risks
- Extreme storms
- Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management
- Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands
- Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast
- Shoreline management
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Extreme event analysis - Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
- Flood risk general article
- Risk management strategies general article
- Copulas - Joint probability distribution of wave heights and water levels
Coastal sediments and sediment transport
Coastal Wiki articles
- Coastal and marine sediments
- Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas series of articles on sediment transport measurement, with many subtopics
- Sediment deposition and erosion processes
- Dynamics of mud transport
- Estuarine turbidity maximum
- Sand transport
- Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment
- Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes - introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments
- Wave ripples
- Wave ripple formation
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Sediment budget coastal systems
- Boundary layer processes and sediment transport - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
- Current ripples and dunes – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
Coastal morphology
Wave-dominated coasts
Coastal Wiki articles
- Classification of sandy coastlines deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development), barrier formation; effect of development
- Characteristics of sedimentary shores - introduction to different coastal types
- Active coastal zone
- Closure depth
- Shoreface profile
- Nearshore sandbars
- Swash zone dynamics
- Gravel Beaches
- Littoral drift and shoreline modelling needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
- Embayed beaches - morphodynamics and equilibrium planform of beaches that are semi-enclosed by headlands or groynes
- Coastal mud belt
- Dune development
- Sand spit
Incomplete articles
- Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
- Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Typology of coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
- Wave-dominated coast general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
- Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
- Fluvial-dominated coasts - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
- Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction
- Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
- Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
- Reef systems
External references
Deltas, estuaries and lagoons
Coastal Wiki articles
- Morphology of estuaries - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples
- Wave-dominated river deltas
- Estuarine morphological modelling
- Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries
- Siltation in harbors and fairways
- Salt marshes
- Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes
- Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes
- Restoration of salt marshes and mudflats
- Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics
Incomplete articles
- Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
- Salt marsh morphodynamics – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics
- Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
- Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
- Characteristics of muddy coasts - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology.
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Rias – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics
- Tidal lagoons – evolution, morphodynamics
- Tide-dominated river deltas - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
- Ebb-tidal deltas – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
- Tidal channel morphodynamics –alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
- Estuary response to sea-level rise
- Estuary channelization - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
- Tidal flat reclamation – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration
- ICZM issues in estuaries
- Bio-geomorphology of salt marshes – landscape dynamics of salt marshes resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes
External references
Coastal morphology measuring techniques
Coastal Wiki articles
- Bathymetry German Bight from X-band radar
- Data processing and output of Lidar
- Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones
- Instruments for bed level detection
- Argus applications
- Argus image types and conventions
- Argus standard image processing
- Argus video
- Argus video monitoring system
- Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone
Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation
Coastal Wiki articles
- Stability models
- Rhythmic shoreline features
- Beach Cusps
- Sand ridges in shelf seas
- Process-based morphological models
- Behaviour-based models
- Littoral drift and shoreline modelling
- Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
- Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness – extension of Bedforms and roughness with a more detailed treatment of the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
- Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
- Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes
Coastal erosion
Coastal Wiki articles
- Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise
- Natural causes of coastal erosion
- Human causes of coastal erosion
- Accretion and erosion for different coastal types
- Port breakwaters and coastal erosion
- Dune erosion
- Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline
- Dealing with coastal erosion
- Shoreline management
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
- Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale
Long-term morphodynamics and climate change
Coastal Wiki articles
- Sea level rise
- Geomorphological time scales and processes
- Effect of climate change on coastline evolution
- Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise
- Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves
- Ocean circulation
- Thermohaline circulation of the oceans
- Coastal ocean satellite altimetry
Incomplete articles
- Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
- Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Climate change impacts general article with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change
- Stratigraphy of coastal systems – introduction to depositional/erosional seabed structures, relation with depositional and erosional processes, long-term morphodynamic processes, response to sea-level rise
- Long-term coastal evolution - introduction to evolution of sedimentary coasts during the Holocene, processes and interactions, modelling, response to future sea-level rise, implications for coastal management
- Quaternary geology - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating
- Sea level change - indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
- Geomorphological modelling at geological time scale
- ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology
Coastal protection and engineering
Hard measures
- Hard coastal protection structures
- Groynes
- Groynes as shore protection
- Deteriorated groynes
- Detached breakwaters
- Applicability of detached breakwaters
- Detached shore parallel breakwaters
- Application of breakwaters
- Revetments
- Seawalls and revetments
- Overtopping resistant dikes
- Bulkheads
- Artificial reefs
- Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments
Soft measures
- Natural shore protecting barriers
- Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs
- Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering
- Beach nourishment
- Shoreface nourishment
- Shore nourishment
- Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal
- Floating breakwaters
- Perched beaches
- Beach drainage
- Sand by-pass systems
- Sand dune types - Europe
- Dynamics, threats and management of dunes
- Shore protection vegetation
Wind and wave energy
- Wave energy converters
- Wave energy converters in coastal structures
- Offshore wind farm development in Germany
Incomplete articles
- Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact
Coastal Wiki gaps
- Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands
- Coastal defence options - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
- Disposal of dredged materials – including fate of dredged materials
- Use of mud in coastal structures
- Sand mining in shelf seas - introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
- Estuary engineering - deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
- Tidal power – introduction to methods for tidal energy exploitation, practical experience
- Marine wind energy introduction to methods and conditions for sustainable and efficient exploitation (technical, financial, environmental)
- Examples of marine wind farms – practical experience
External references
