Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"

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* [[Stability models]]
 
* [[Stability models]]
 
* [[Beach Cusps]]
 
* [[Beach Cusps]]
 +
* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
 
* [[Process-based modelling]]
 
* [[Process-based modelling]]
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
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* [[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
 
* [[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
 
* [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
 
* [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
−
* [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
 
 
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
 
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
 
* [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
 
* [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules

Revision as of 16:32, 25 April 2017

Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:


Coastal hydrodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles

Coastal Wiki gap

  • Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)


Waves

Coastal Wiki articles

  • Waves - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
  • Waves and currents by X-band radar - wave measurement technique
  • Using satellite data for global wave forecasts
  • Infragravity waves - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas


Incomplete articles

  • Wave transformation needs expansion with general introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, shoaling, setdown, wave breaking, roller energy, setup, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas, models
  • Statistical description of wave parameters needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
  • Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Types of ocean wave - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy
  • Wave theory – introduction, linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory, solitary waves, Cnoidal waves, wave asymmetry and skewness
  • Wind wave generation – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum
  • Wave refraction, diffraction and reflection - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
  • Wave transformation in the nearshore - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas
  • Wave-current interaction
  • Swash – introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, beach berm, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
  • Wave runup – theory, models, wave overtopping, practical formulas
  • Tsunamis - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
  • Wave impact – lift force on structures, impact, practical formulas
  • Ship waves - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
  • Wave modelling - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics


External references


Tides

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Tides needs revision
  • Tidal prediction needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
  • Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Tides in the oceans
  • Tidal asymmetry – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
  • Tidal bores- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport


External references


Currents

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Longshore current – definition needs expansion: generation of longshore currents, theory, practical formulas
  • Rip currents - definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
  • Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
  • Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length


Transport and mixing processes

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Flood risk

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal sediments and sediment transport

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Sediment - needs update with links to specific topics


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Sediment classification - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
  • Graded beds – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
  • Sediment budget coastal systems
  • Boundary layer processes and sediment transport - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
  • Current ripples and dunes – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
  • Wave ripples - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
  • Cross-shore sediment transport - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
  • Aeolian transport – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
  • Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling


External references


Coastal morphology

Wave-dominated coasts

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  • Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Typology of coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
  • Wave-dominated coast general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
  • Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
  • Mud coasts (or Fluvial-dominated coasts ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
  • Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction
  • Equilibrium coastal profile – empirical models, theoretical background, applicability
  • Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
  • Breaker bar dynamics – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
  • Coastal profile response to storms – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
  • Shoreline planform – pocket beach equilibrium planform, shoreline rotation
  • Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
  • Reef systems


External references


Deltas, estuaries and lagoons

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Estuaries and tidal rivers – introduction to different types of estuaries
  • Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
  • Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
  • Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
  • Characteristics of muddy coasts - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology.


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Rias – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics
  • Tidal lagoons – evolution, morphodynamics
  • Tide-dominated river deltas - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
  • Ebb-tidal deltas – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
  • Estuarine morphodynamics – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
  • Estuary response to sea-level rise
  • Estuary channelization - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
  • Tidal flat reclamation – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration
  • ICZM issues in estuaries
  • Bio-geomorphology of salt marshes – landscape dynamics of salt marshes resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes


External references


Coastal morphology measuring techniques

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
  • Morphodynamic selforganisation processes – principles of self-organisation and examples
  • Rhythmic shoreline features – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
  • Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
  • Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
  • Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes


Coastal erosion

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
  • Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale


External references


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
  • Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal protection and engineering


Incomplete articles

  • Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references

  Better categories

Coastal hydrodynamics Transport and mixing processes Coastal sediments and sediment transport Wave-dominated coasts Deltas, estuaries and lagoons Coastal morphology measuring techniques Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation Coastal erosion Long-term morphodynamics and climate change Coastal protection and engineering   OLD

Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:


Hydrodynamics

Articles on modelling : Hydrodynamic modelling , Modelling coastal hydrodynamics , How to apply models , Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)

Lacking: introduction to Hydrodynamic processes and equations


Waves

See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia Water waves

Article Waves introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves

Lacking: Types of ocean wave - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy.

Lacking: introduction to wave theory: Linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory (See also Airy wave theory), Wave asymmetry and skewness

Lacking: Non-linear wave theories – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (See also Cnoidal wave)

Lacking: introduction to Wind wave generation (See also Wind wave)

Article on wave measurement : Waves and currents by X-band radar

Article on Wave transformation in the nearshore : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models

Lacking: Refraction and diffraction , Wave reflection , Wave-current interaction

Lacking: Swash – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping

Lacking: Wave runup, wave overtopping, wave shoaling (Tsunamis definition needs expansion)

Lacking: Wave impact

Lacking: Ship waves - Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash

Article Statistical description of wave parameters needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction

Lacking: Wave modelling - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics

Lacking: Infragravity waves (Article Edge waves definition should be expanded)



Tides

Article Tide purely descriptive, needs expansion (see for example Theory of tides)

Lacking: Tides in the oceans

Article Tidal prediction needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples

Article Tidal motion in shelf seas

Lacking: Tidal asymmetry – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries), Tidal bores

Lacking: Storm surge - definition needs expansion


Currents

Articles measurement of currents: Waves and currents by X-band radar , Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods, Use of ground based radar in hydrography

Article Currents introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport.

Definitions Longshore current , Rip currents need expansion: processes, practical formulas

More specific article needed on Wind driven currents (Ekman theory),

Lacking: Density-driven currents

Lacking: article on Turbulence

Article Coriolis acceleration

Articles Bedforms and roughness, Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries


Diffusion, dispersion

Articles Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries , Estuarine circulation , Salt wedge estuaries (See also Salinity and Reduction of saline intrusion))

Expand definition of Stratification – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing

Article Ocean – shelf-sea interaction

Lacking: Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas

Article on marine mixing and dispersion processes: Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea

Lacking: River plume dynamics

Article on mixing and dispersion in the nearshore: Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water

Articles on oil spills: Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution , Oil spill monitoring. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention (See also Oil spill)


Flood risk

Article Chances and risks. Lacking : General article on Flood risk, Risk management strategies

Article Extreme storms

Lacking: Extreme event analysis - Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period

Articles Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management, Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands , Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast


Sediments

Sediment - update article with links to specific topics

Lacking: Sediment classification - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive

Articles on sediment transport measurement : see Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas with many subtopics

Article Sediment Deposition and Erosion Processes

Article Dynamics of mud transport

Articles Sand transport, Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment

Lacking: Cross-shore sediment transport - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone

Article on littoral drift Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas

Lacking: Boundary layer dynamics – introduction to boundary layer processes (current, waves, current + waves), Wave boundary layer and sediment transport

Lacking: Graded beds

Lacking: Sediment budget coastal systems

Lacking: Current ripples and dunes , Wave ripples – formation processes

Lacking : Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum – introduction to underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation, water quality. (See also Turbidity)

Lacking: Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels

Lacking: Aeolian transport – from beach to dunes, dune formation.


Geomorphology

Geomorphology – expand definition to a general article linking to more specific articles

Geomorphological time scales and processes


Classification of coasts

Article Classification of coastlines deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal form elements (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development), barrier formation; effect of development

Articles Classification of coastal profiles, Coastal zone characteristics = introduction to different coastal types

Article Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohensive sediments; lacking : more specific article on Equilibrium coastal profile

Lacking: Typology coastlines –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes,

Rocky shores – Rocky shore morphology – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.

Lacking: Wave-dominated coast, barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels. (See also Wave-dominated coasts

Lacking: Tidal lagoons (See also Wave-dominated estuaries and Coastal lagoons))

Article Wave-dominated river deltas (See also Wave-dominated deltas)

Lacking: Fluvial-dominated coast, Tide-dominated river deltas

Lacking: Macro-tidal coasts (See also Tide-dominated beaches and Tide-modified beaches))

Article Gravel Beaches

Article Characteristics of muddy coasts .

Lacking: Mud coasts – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana, Typology of mangrove coasts


Estuaries

Article Morphology of estuaries - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples (incomplete article Estuaries and tidal rivers)

Lacking: Rias, Fjords See also (Embayments and drowned river valleys)

Articles Estuarine morphological modelling, Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries

Lacking: Estuarine morphodynamics – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation

Lacking: Estuary response to change, Impact of estuarine channelisation, Tidal flat reclamation - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation) (See also Alteration of hydrodynamics)

Article Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries

Lacking: Ebb-tidal deltas

Article Mudflat - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology (See also Tidal creeks)

Article Mangroves (See also Mangrove restoration)

Articles on Salt marshes , Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes , Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability

Lacking: ICZM issues in estuaries , Coastal squeeze


Coastal morphodynamics

Article on morphodynamic feedback processes : Stability models

Lacking: Rhythmic shoreline features – rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes and erosional embayments, links to specific articles,

Article Beach Cusps

Lacking: Coastal barriers - coastal barrier formation, Breaker bar dynamics, Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation

Articles on specific topics of morphodynamic modelling and analysis: Process-based morphological models , Data-driven models and statistical approaches , Geomorphological analysis , Behaviour-based models , Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics

Articles on morphological survey methods : Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction , Data processing and output of Lidar

Articles on shoreline profile dynamics: Parametric equilibrium models, Process-based modelling

Articles on shoreline modelling : Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions , Process-based modelling

Lacking: Coastal profile response to storms – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)

Lacking: Shoreline planform – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see Parametric equilibrium models), shoreline rotation

Lacking: Beach-dune interaction – dune accretion, aeolian transport

Lacking: Reef systems

Lacking: Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas sandwaves, tidal ridges, shoreface-connected ridges


Coastal erosion

Articles on shoreline observation: Argus image types and conventions Argus video monitoring system Argus applications Argus video

Article on Data analysis and Statistical Approaches

Lacking: Shoreline prediction – prediction of shoreline response to storms

Article on coastal erosion processes : Types and background of coastal erosion (See also Beach erosion)

Articles Bruun rule , Closure depth

Articles Human causes of coastal erosion , Accretion and erosion for different coastal types , Typical examples of structural erosion

Article Natural causes of coastal erosion

Article Dune erosion


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Lacking: Sea level change - indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change

Lacking: Quaternary geology - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating

Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic

Articles on climate change impacts : Effect of climate change on coastline evolution , Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves. Lacking is a general article Climate change impacts with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change

Lacking: Geomorphological modelling at geological time scale

Lacking: Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers

Lacking: ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology


Coastal engineering

General articles on coastal engineering : Hard shoreline protection structures , Protection against coastal erosion , Hard structures and structural erosion , Sand by-pass systems

Articles on specific hard structures : Groynes, Groynes as shore protection, Deteriorated groynes , Detached breakwaters , Detached shore parallel breakwaters , Application of breakwaters , Floating breakwaters , Perched beaches , Seawalls and revetments , Overtopping resistant dikes

Articles on Soft shoreline protection solutions , Artificial reefs , Natural barriers , Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs, Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering

Articles on Beach nourishment , Artificial nourishment (See also Sand nourishment)

Articles on Shore nourishment , Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal Lacking: Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands

Article Beach drainage

Articles on dune management : Sand dune types - Europe , Dynamics, threats and management of dunes

Lacking: Coastal defence options - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change

Lacking: Resonance phenomena - dealing with seiches in harbours and basins

Expand definition Dredging with overview article of techniques and impact. (See also Reuse of dredged material)

Case study Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline

Lacking: Disposal of dredged materials – including fate of dredged materials

Lacking: Sand mining in shelf seas – including marine aggregates

Lacking: Estuary engineering - deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also Managed realignment)

Lacking: Tidal power

Article on marine wind farms : Offshore wind farm development in Germany . Needs general article Marine wind energy and update of case studies

Articles on wave energy : Wave energy converters, Wave energy converters in coastal structures


  OLD

Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:


Hydrodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles

Coastal Wiki gap

  • Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)


Waves

Coastal Wiki articles

  • Waves - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
  • Waves and currents by X-band radar - wave measurement technique


Incomplete articles

  • Wave transformation needs expansion with general introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, shoaling, setdown, wave breaking, roller energy, setup, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas, models
  • Statistical description of wave parameters needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
  • Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Types of ocean wave - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy
  • Wave theory – introduction, linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory, solitary waves, Cnoidal waves, wave asymmetry and skewness
  • Wind wave generation – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum
  • Wave refraction, diffraction and reflection - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
  • Wave transformation in the nearshore - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas
  • Wave-current interaction
  • Swash – introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, beach berm, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
  • Wave runup – theory, models, wave overtopping, practical formulas
  • Tsunamis - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
  • Wave impact – lift force on structures, impact, practical formulas
  • Ship waves - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
  • Wave modelling - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
  • Infragravity waves - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas


External references Water waves Airy wave theory Cnoidal wave Wind wave)


Tides

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Tides needs revision
  • Tidal prediction needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
  • Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Tides in the oceans
  • Tidal asymmetry – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
  • Tidal bores- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport


External references


Currents

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Longshore current ,
  • Rip currents definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
  • Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
  • Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length


Diffusion, dispersion

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Flood risk

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Sediments and sediment transport

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Sediment classification - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
  • Cross-shore sediment transport - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
  • Graded beds – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
  • Sediment budget coastal systems
  • Boundary layer processes and sediment transport - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
  • Current ripples and dunes – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
  • Wave ripples - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
  • Aeolian transport – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling


External references


Classification of coasts

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Typology coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
  • Equilibrium coastal profile
  • Wave-dominated coast, barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
  • Tidal lagoons
  • Fluvial-dominated coast
  • Tide-dominated river deltas - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
  • Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
  • [[Mud coasts] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
  • Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction


External references


Estuaries

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Estuaries and tidal rivers – introduction to different types of estuaries
  • Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
  • Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
  • Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Coastal morphodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
  • Morphodynamic selforganisation processes – principles of self-organisation and examples
  • Rhythmic shoreline features – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
  • Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
  • Breaker bar dynamics – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
  • Coastal profile response to storms – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
  • Shoreline planform – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see Parametric equilibrium models), shoreline rotation
  • Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
  • Reef systems
  • Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
  • Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
  • Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules


Coastal erosion

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
  • Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale


External references


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
  • Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal engineering


Incomplete articles

  • Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


  Estuary channelization - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling

Breaker bar dynamics – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling

Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)

Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas - introduction to concepts and processes, field studies, modelling, ecosystem implications

Swash - introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types

Tidal flat reclamation – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration

Infragravity waves - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas

Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management.

Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models

Shoreline prediction – practical methods, applicability, implication for coastal management

Wave transformation in the nearshore - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas

Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules

Current ripples and dunes – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling

Sand mining in shelf seas - introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines

Rhythmic shoreline features – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift

Coastal typology – introduction to different coastline classification schemes. Particular subtopic: Typology of mangrove shorelines – morphological-ecological interaction

Tidal bores introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport

River plume dynamics - introduction to major physical processes, observation methods, field examples and practical simulation models

River tidal deltas - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise

Tidal power – introduction to methods for tidal energy exploitation, practical experience

Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise

Wave boundary layer and sediment transport - introduction to characteristics of the wave boundary layer, importance for sediment transport and nearshore morphodynamics, velocity and acceleration skewness, sediment transport processes, ripple influence, observation, modelling, practical formulas

Ripp-cell dynamics - introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management

Sedimentation of navigation channels and harbours - ntroduction to sedimentation processes, formation of turbidity maximum and fluid mud layers, relation with channel dredging, field examples, modelling

Long-term coastal evolution - introduction to evolution of sedimentary coasts during the Holocene, processes and interactions, modelling, response to future sea-level rise, implications for coastal management

[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale, with focus on data-driven methods

Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts

[[Tidal asymmetry] – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems

Wave ripples - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state

Wave refraction and diffraction - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling

Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport

[[Mud coasts] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats (mangrove harvesting?) and response to sea-level rise

Tsunamis - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, amplification in shallow water, runup, modelling, observations, empirical formulas.

Morphodynamic selforganisation processes – principles of self-organisation and examples

Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices

Turbidity maximum - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, causes and consequences for estuarine sedimentation and water quality, conditions for occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling

Marine wind energy introduction to methods and conditions for sustainable and efficient exploitation (technical, financial, environmental)

Swash introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types

Boundary layer processes and sediment transport - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, practical formulas for modelling.

Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)

Coastal squeeze - introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice.

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