Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"

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== Hydrodynamics ==
 
== Hydrodynamics ==
  
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Articles on modelling : [[Hydrodynamic modelling]] , [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]] , [[How to apply models]] , [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]]
+
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Hydrodynamic modelling]]
 +
* [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]]  
 +
* [[How to apply models]]  
 +
* [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]]
  
−
Lacking: introduction to [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]]
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'''Coastal Wiki gap'''
 +
* [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
  
  
 
===Waves===
 
===Waves===
  
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See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves]  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Waves]] - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
 +
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
  
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Article [[Waves]] introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
 
  
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Lacking:  [[Types of ocean wave]] -  progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy.
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Wave transformation]] needs expansion with general introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, shoaling, setdown, wave breaking, roller energy, setup, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas, models
 +
* [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
 +
* [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
  
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Lacking: introduction to wave theory: [[Linear wave theory]], [[Stokes wave theory]]  (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory]),  [[Wave asymmetry and skewness]]
 
  
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Lacking: [[Non-linear wave theories]] – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave])
 
  
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Lacking: introduction to [[Wind wave generation]]  (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave])
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 +
* [[Types of ocean wave]] - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy
 +
* [[Wave theory]] – introduction, linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory, solitary waves, Cnoidal waves, wave asymmetry and skewness
 +
* [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum
 +
* [[Wave refraction, diffraction and reflection]] - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
 +
* [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas  
 +
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
 +
* [[Swash]] – introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, beach berm, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
 +
* [[Wave runup]] – theory, models, wave overtopping, practical formulas
 +
* [[Tsunamis]] - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
 +
* [[Wave impact]] – lift force on structures, impact, practical formulas
 +
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 +
* [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 +
* [[Infragravity waves]] - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas
  
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Article on wave measurement : [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]]
 
  
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Article on [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models
+
'''External references'''
 +
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves]
 +
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory]
 +
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave]
 +
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave])
  
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Lacking: [[Refraction and diffraction]] , [[Wave reflection]] , [[Wave-current interaction]]
 
  
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Lacking: [[Swash]] – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Wave runup]], wave overtopping, wave shoaling ([[Tsunamis]] definition needs expansion)
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Wave impact]]
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Ship waves]] -  Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
−
 
−
Article [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Infragravity waves]]  (Article [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded)
 
  
 +
===Tides===
  
 +
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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* [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]
  
  
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===Tides===
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Tides]] needs revision 
 +
* [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
 +
* [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact
  
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Article [[Tide]] purely descriptive, needs expansion  (see for example [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides Theory of tides])
 
  
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Lacking: [[Tides in the oceans]]
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
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* [[Tides in the oceans]]
 +
* [[Tidal asymmetry]] – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
 +
* [[Tidal bores]]- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport
  
−
Article [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
 
  
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Article [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]
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'''External references'''
−
 
+
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides Theory of tides]
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Lacking: [[Tidal asymmetry]] – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries),  [[Tidal bores]]
 
−
 
 
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Lacking: [[Storm surge]] -  definition needs expansion
 
  
  
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===Currents===
 
===Currents===
  
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Articles measurement of currents:  [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] , [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]], [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]]
+
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone * [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents 
 +
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents 
 +
* [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents 
 +
* [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 +
* [[Bedforms and roughness]]
 +
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]
 +
  
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Article [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport.
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'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Longshore current]] ,
 +
* [[Rip currents]] definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management   
  
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Definitions [[Longshore current]] , [[Rip currents]] need expansion: processes, practical formulas
 
  
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More specific article needed on [[Wind driven currents]] (Ekman theory),  
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
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* [[Wind driven currents]] – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
 +
* [[Density-driven currents]] – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
 +
* [[Turbulence]] – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length
  
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Lacking:  [[Density-driven currents]]
 
−
 
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Lacking: article on [[Turbulence]]
 
−
 
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Article [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 
−
 
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Articles [[Bedforms and roughness]], [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]
 
  
  
 +
===Diffusion, dispersion===
  
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===Diffusion, dispersion===
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]]
 +
* [[Estuarine circulation]]
 +
* [[Salt wedge estuaries]]
 +
* [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]]
 +
* [[Ocean – shelf-sea interaction]]
 +
* [[Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea]]
 +
* [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] 
 +
* [[Oil spill monitoring]]
  
−
Articles [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]] , [[Estuarine circulation]] , [[Salt wedge estuaries]]
 
−
(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity] and [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]))
 
  
−
Expand definition of [[Stratification]] – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Stratification]] – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing
  
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Article [[Ocean – shelf-sea interaction]]
 
  
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Lacking: [[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]]
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 +
* [[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]] - introduction to concepts and processes, field studies, modelling, ecosystem implications
 +
* [[River plume dynamics]] - introduction to major physical processes, observation methods, field examples and practical simulation models
  
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Article on marine mixing and dispersion processes:  [[Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea]]
 
  
−
Lacking: [[River plume dynamics]]
+
'''External references'''
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity]
 +
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]
 +
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill])
  
−
Article on mixing and dispersion in the nearshore: [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]]
 
  
−
Articles on oil spills: [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] , [[Oil spill monitoring]]. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill])
 
  
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===Flood risk===
 
===Flood risk===
  
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Article [[Chances and risks]]. Lacking : General article on [[Flood risk]], [[Risk management strategies]]
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
 
+
* [[Chances and risks]]
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Article [[Extreme storms]]
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* [[Extreme storms]]
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+
* [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]]  
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Lacking:  [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
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* [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]]  
−
 
+
* [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
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Articles  [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]], [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]] , [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
 
−
 
 
−
 
 
  
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== Sediments ==
 
  
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[[Sediment]] -  update article with links to specific topics
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 +
*  [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
 +
* [[Flood risk]] general article
 +
* [[Risk management strategies]] general article
  
−
Lacking: [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
 
  
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Articles on sediment transport measurement : see [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] with many subtopics
 
  
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Article  [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]
+
== Sediments and sediment transport==
  
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Article [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] series of articles on sediment transport measurement, with many subtopics
 +
* [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]
 +
* [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
 +
* [[Sand transport]]
 +
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 +
* [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments
  
−
Articles [[Sand transport]], [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
  
−
Lacking: [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Sediment]] - needs update with links to specific topics
 +
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
  
−
Article on littoral drift  [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
 
  
−
Lacking: [[Boundary layer dynamics]] – introduction to boundary layer processes (current, waves, current + waves), [[Wave boundary layer and sediment transport]]
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 +
* [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
 +
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 +
* [[Graded beds]] – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
 +
* [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]
 +
* [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 +
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 +
* [[Wave ripples]] - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
 +
* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
  
−
Lacking: [[Graded beds]]
 
  
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Lacking: [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
+
'''External references'''
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/turbidity.jsp Turbidity]
  
−
Lacking: [[Current ripples and dunes]] , [[Wave ripples]] – formation processes
 
−
 
−
Lacking : [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] – introduction to underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation, water quality.
 
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(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/turbidity.jsp Turbidity])
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels]]
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, dune formation.
 
−
 
−
 
−
==Geomorphology==
 
−
 
−
[[Geomorphology]] – expand definition to a general article linking to more specific articles
 
−
 
−
[[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
 
  
  
 
===Classification of coasts===
 
===Classification of coasts===
  
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Article [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal form elements (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
+
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal form elements (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
 +
* [[Classification of coastal profiles]] 
 +
* [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types
 +
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
 +
* [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]]
 +
* [[Wave-dominated river deltas]]
  
−
Articles [[Classification of coastal profiles]],  [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types
 
  
−
Article [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohensive sediments; lacking : more specific article on [[Equilibrium coastal profile]]
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Rocky shore morphology]] – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  
−
Lacking: [[Typology coastlines]] –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes,
 
  
−
[[Rocky shores]] – [[Rocky shore morphology]] – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 +
* [[Typology coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
 +
* [[Equilibrium coastal profile]]
 +
* [[Wave-dominated coast]], barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels
 +
* [[Tidal lagoons]]
 +
* [[Fluvial-dominated coast]]
 +
* [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 +
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
 +
* [[Mud coasts] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
 +
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
  
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Lacking: [[Wave-dominated coast]], barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels. (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
 
  
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Lacking: [[Tidal lagoons]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] and [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]))
+
'''External references'''
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries]
 +
* http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas]
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches]
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]
  
−
Article [[Wave-dominated river deltas]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas])
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Fluvial-dominated coast]]  , [[Tide-dominated river deltas]]
 
−
 
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Lacking: [[Macro-tidal coasts]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches] and [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]))
 
−
 
−
Article [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
−
 
−
Article [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]].
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Mud coasts]] – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana, [[Typology of mangrove coasts]]
 
  
  
 
===Estuaries===
 
===Estuaries===
  
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Article [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples (incomplete article [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]])
+
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
 
+
* [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples  
−
Lacking: [[Rias]], [[Fjords]]  
+
* [[Estuarine morphological modelling]]  
−
See also ([http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys])
+
* [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
−
 
+
* [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]]
−
Articles [[Estuarine morphological modelling]], [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
+
* [[Salt marshes]]  
−
 
+
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
−
Lacking: [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
+
* [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
  
−
Lacking: [[Estuary response to change]], [[Impact of estuarine channelisation]], [[Tidal flat reclamation]] - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation)
 
−
(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics])
 
  
−
Article [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]]
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] – introduction to different types of estuaries
 +
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 +
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
 +
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
  
−
Lacking: [[Ebb-tidal deltas]]
 
  
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Article [[Mudflat]] - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks])
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 +
* [[Rias]] – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics  
 +
* [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
 +
* [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
 +
* [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling
 +
* [[Sedimentation of navigation channels and harbours]] - introduction to sedimentation processes, formation of turbidity maximum and fluid mud layers, relation with channel dredging, field examples, modelling
 +
* [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]]
 +
* [[Estuary channelization]] - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
 +
* [[Tidal flat reclamation]] – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration
 +
* [[ICZM issues in estuaries]]  
  
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Article [[Mangroves]] (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration])
 
  
−
Articles on [[Salt marshes]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]] , [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
+
'''External references'''
−
 
+
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys]
−
Lacking: [[ICZM issues in estuaries]] , [[Coastal squeeze]]
+
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics]
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks]
 +
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration]
  
  
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===Coastal morphodynamics===
 
===Coastal morphodynamics===
  
 +
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Stability models]]
 +
* [[Beach Cusps]]
 +
* [[Process-based modelling]]
 +
* [[Process-based morphological models]]
 +
* [[Geomorphological analysis]]
 +
* [[Behaviour-based models]]
 +
* [[Parametric equilibrium models]]
 +
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]]
 +
* [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]]
 +
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
 +
* [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]]
 +
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
  
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Article on morphodynamic feedback processes : [[Stability models]]
 
  
−
Lacking: [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes and erosional embayments, links to specific articles,
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation
  
−
Article [[Beach Cusps]]
 
  
−
Lacking: [[Coastal barriers]] - coastal barrier formation, [[Breaker bar dynamics]], [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
−
 
+
* [[Coastline instability]] - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
−
Articles on specific topics of morphodynamic modelling and analysis: [[Process-based morphological models]] , [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]] , [[Geomorphological analysis]] , [[Behaviour-based models]] , [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
+
* [[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
−
 
+
* [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
−
Articles on morphological survey methods : [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]] , [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
+
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
−
 
+
* [[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling  
−
Articles on shoreline profile dynamics:  [[Parametric equilibrium models]], [[Process-based modelling]]
+
* [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
−
 
+
* [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation  
−
Articles on shoreline modelling : [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] , [[Process-based modelling]]
+
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
−
 
+
* [[Reef systems]]
−
Lacking: [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
+
* [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
−
 
+
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
−
Lacking: [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation  
+
* [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
−
 
 
−
Lacking: [[Beach-dune interaction]] – dune accretion, aeolian transport
 
−
 
 
−
Lacking: [[Reef systems]]
 
−
 
 
−
Lacking: [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] sandwaves, tidal ridges, shoreface-connected ridges  
 
  
  
Line 255: Line 301:
 
===Coastal erosion===
 
===Coastal erosion===
  
−
Articles on shoreline observation: [[Argus image types and conventions]] [[Argus video monitoring system]] [[Argus applications]] [[Argus video]]
+
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
 
+
* [[Argus video]]
−
Article on [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
+
* [[Argus image types and conventions]]  
 +
* [[Argus video monitoring system]]*
 +
* [[Argus applications]]  
 +
* [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
 +
* [[Bruun rule]]
 +
* [[Closure depth]]
 +
* [[Types and background of coastal erosion]]
 +
* [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 +
* [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]
 +
* [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]]
 +
* [[Typical examples of structural erosion]]
 +
* [[Dune erosion]]
 +
* [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]
  
−
Lacking: [[Shoreline prediction]] – prediction of shoreline response to storms
 
  
−
Article on coastal erosion processes : [[Types and background of coastal erosion]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/beach_erosion.jsp Beach erosion])
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 +
* [[Shoreline prediction]] – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
 +
* [[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale
  
−
Articles [[Bruun rule]] , [[Closure depth]]
 
  
−
Articles [[Human causes of coastal erosion]] , [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]] , [[Typical examples of structural erosion]]
+
'''External references'''
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/beach_erosion.jsp Beach erosion]
  
−
Article [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
−
 
−
Article [[Dune erosion]]
 
  
  
 
===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change===
 
===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change===
  
−
Lacking: [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
+
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
 +
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]
 +
* [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]].
  
−
Lacking: [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating
 
  
−
[[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Geomorphology]] – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
 +
* [[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic
  
−
Articles on climate change impacts : [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]] , [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]]. Lacking is a general article [[Climate change impacts]] with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change
 
  
−
Lacking: [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale  
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
−
 
+
* [[Climate change impacts]] general article with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change
−
Lacking: [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]]
+
* [[Stratigraphy of coastal systems]] – introduction to depositional/erosional seabed structures, relation with depositional and erosional processes, long-term morphodynamic processes, response to sea-level rise
−
 
+
* [[Long-term coastal evolution]] - introduction to evolution of sedimentary coasts during the Holocene, processes and interactions, modelling, response to future sea-level rise, implications for coastal management
−
Lacking: [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
+
* [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating
 +
* [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
 +
* [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale  
 +
* [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]]
 +
* [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
  
  
Line 292: Line 355:
 
== Coastal engineering ==
 
== Coastal engineering ==
  
−
General articles on coastal engineering : [[Hard shoreline protection structures]] , [[Protection against coastal erosion]] , [[Hard structures and structural erosion]] , [[Sand by-pass systems]]
+
* [[Hard shoreline protection structures]]  
−
 
+
* [[Protection against coastal erosion]]  
−
Articles on specific hard structures : [[Groynes]], [[Groynes as shore protection]], [[Deteriorated groynes]] , [[Detached breakwaters]] , [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]] , [[Application of breakwaters]] , [[Floating breakwaters]] , [[Perched beaches]] , [[Seawalls and revetments]] , [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
+
* [[Hard structures and structural erosion]]  
 +
* [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 +
* [[Groynes]]
 +
* [[Groynes as shore protection]]
 +
* [[Deteriorated groynes]]  
 +
* [[Detached breakwaters]]  
 +
* [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]]  
 +
* [[Application of breakwaters]]  
 +
* [[Floating breakwaters]]  
 +
* [[Perched beaches]]  
 +
* [[Seawalls and revetments]]  
 +
* [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
 +
* [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]]
 +
* [[Artificial reefs]]
 +
* [[Natural barriers]]
 +
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
 +
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 +
* [[Beach nourishment]]
 +
* [[Artificial nourishment]] 
 +
* [[Shore nourishment]]
 +
* [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]]
 +
* [[Beach drainage]]
 +
* [[Sand dune types - Europe]]
 +
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]
 +
* [[Wave energy converters]]
 +
* [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
 +
* [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]]
  
−
Articles on [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]] , [[Artificial reefs]] , [[Natural barriers]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]], [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
  
−
Articles on [[Beach nourishment]] , [[Artificial nourishment]]  (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Sand_nourishments?rId=53 Sand nourishment])
+
'''Incomplete articles'''
 +
* [[Dredging]] needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact
  
−
Articles on [[Shore nourishment]] , [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]] Lacking: [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
 
  
−
Article  [[Beach drainage]]
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
−
+
* [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
−
Articles on dune management : [[Sand dune types - Europe]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]  
+
* [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
−
+
* [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
−
Lacking: [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
+
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
−
+
* [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] - introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
−
Lacking: [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
+
* [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
−
   
+
* [[Tidal power]] – introduction to methods for tidal energy exploitation, practical experience
−
Expand definition [[Dredging]] with overview article of techniques and impact. (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/The_beneficial_re_use_of_dredged_material?rId=52 Reuse of dredged material])
+
* [[Marine wind energy]] introduction to methods and conditions for sustainable and efficient exploitation (technical, financial, environmental)
 +
* [[Examples of marine wind farms]] – practical experience
  
−
Case study [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] – including marine aggregates
 
−
 
−
Lacking: [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Managed_realignment?rId=51 Managed realignment])
 
  
−
Lacking: [[Tidal power]]
+
'''External references'''
 +
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Sand_nourishments?rId=53 Sand nourishment]
 +
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/The_beneficial_re_use_of_dredged_material?rId=52 Reuse of dredged material]
 +
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Managed_realignment?rId=51 Managed realignment]
  
−
Article on marine wind farms : [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]] . Needs general article [[Marine wind energy]] and update of case studies
 
  
−
Articles on wave energy : [[Wave energy converters]], [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
 
  
  

Revision as of 17:52, 19 December 2016

Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:


Hydrodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles

Coastal Wiki gap

  • Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)


Waves

Coastal Wiki articles

  • Waves - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
  • Waves and currents by X-band radar - wave measurement technique


Incomplete articles

  • Wave transformation needs expansion with general introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, shoaling, setdown, wave breaking, roller energy, setup, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas, models
  • Statistical description of wave parameters needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
  • Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Types of ocean wave - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy
  • Wave theory – introduction, linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory, solitary waves, Cnoidal waves, wave asymmetry and skewness
  • Wind wave generation – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum
  • Wave refraction, diffraction and reflection - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
  • Wave transformation in the nearshore - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas
  • Wave-current interaction
  • Swash – introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, beach berm, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
  • Wave runup – theory, models, wave overtopping, practical formulas
  • Tsunamis - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
  • Wave impact – lift force on structures, impact, practical formulas
  • Ship waves - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
  • Wave modelling - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
  • Infragravity waves - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas


External references Water waves Airy wave theory Cnoidal wave Wind wave)


Tides

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Tides needs revision
  • Tidal prediction needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
  • Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Tides in the oceans
  • Tidal asymmetry – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
  • Tidal bores- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport


External references


Currents

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Longshore current ,
  • Rip currents definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
  • Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
  • Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length


Diffusion, dispersion

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Flood risk

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Sediments and sediment transport

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Sediment classification - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
  • Cross-shore sediment transport - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
  • Graded beds – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
  • Sediment budget coastal systems
  • Boundary layer processes and sediment transport - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
  • Current ripples and dunes – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
  • Wave ripples - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
  • Aeolian transport – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling


External references


Classification of coasts

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Typology coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
  • Equilibrium coastal profile
  • Wave-dominated coast, barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
  • Tidal lagoons
  • Fluvial-dominated coast
  • Tide-dominated river deltas - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
  • Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
  • [[Mud coasts] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
  • Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction


External references


Estuaries

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Estuaries and tidal rivers – introduction to different types of estuaries
  • Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
  • Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
  • Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Coastal morphodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
  • Morphodynamic selforganisation processes – principles of self-organisation and examples
  • Rhythmic shoreline features – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
  • Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
  • Breaker bar dynamics – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
  • Coastal profile response to storms – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
  • Shoreline planform – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see Parametric equilibrium models), shoreline rotation
  • Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
  • Reef systems
  • Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
  • Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
  • Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules


Coastal erosion

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
  • Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale


External references


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
  • Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal engineering


Incomplete articles

  • Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references

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