Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"
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==Introduction== | ==Introduction== | ||
− | This article | + | This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8. |
− | The article also indicates missing topics (in red). | + | The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). |
Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics. | Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics. | ||
+ | |||
+ | For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular: | ||
+ | * pages of Wikipedia | ||
+ | * pages of the Australian coastal website http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/index.jsp | ||
+ | * pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/Publicaties/deltafact.aspx?pId=1739 | ||
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Articles on modelling : [[Hydrodynamic modelling]] , [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]] , [[How to apply models]] , [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]] | Articles on modelling : [[Hydrodynamic modelling]] , [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]] , [[How to apply models]] , [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]] | ||
− | Lacking : introduction to [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] | + | Lacking: introduction to [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] |
===Waves=== | ===Waves=== | ||
− | See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves | + | See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves] |
Article [[Waves]] introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves | Article [[Waves]] introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves | ||
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Lacking: [[Types of ocean wave]] - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy. | Lacking: [[Types of ocean wave]] - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy. | ||
− | Lacking: introduction to wave theory: [[Linear wave theory]], [[Stokes wave theory]] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory ) | + | Lacking: introduction to wave theory: [[Linear wave theory]], [[Stokes wave theory]] (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory]), [[Wave asymmetry and skewness]] |
− | Lacking: [[Non-linear wave theories]] – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave ) | + | Lacking: [[Non-linear wave theories]] – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave]) |
− | Lacking: introduction to [[Wind wave generation]] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave ) | + | Lacking: introduction to [[Wind wave generation]] (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave]) |
Article on wave measurement : [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] | Article on wave measurement : [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] | ||
− | Article on [[Wave transformation]] : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models | + | Article on [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models |
− | Lacking : [[Refraction and diffraction]] , [[Wave reflection]] , [[Wave-current interaction]] | + | Lacking: [[Refraction and diffraction]] , [[Wave reflection]] , [[Wave-current interaction]] |
Lacking: [[Swash]] – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping | Lacking: [[Swash]] – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping | ||
− | Lacking : [[Wave | + | Lacking: [[Wave runup]], wave overtopping, wave shoaling ([[Tsunamis]] definition needs expansion) |
− | Lacking : [[ | + | Lacking: [[Wave impact]] |
− | Article | + | Lacking: [[Ship waves]] - Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash |
+ | |||
+ | Article [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction | ||
Lacking: [[Wave modelling]] - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics | Lacking: [[Wave modelling]] - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics | ||
− | Lacking : [[Infragravity waves]] | + | Lacking: [[Infragravity waves]] (Article [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded) |
+ | |||
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===Tides=== | ===Tides=== | ||
− | Article [[Tide]] purely descriptive, needs expansion (see for example https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides ) | + | Article [[Tide]] purely descriptive, needs expansion (see for example [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides Theory of tides]) |
− | Article [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific | + | Lacking: [[Tides in the oceans]] |
+ | |||
+ | Article [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples | ||
Article [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]] | Article [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]] | ||
− | Lacking : [[Tidal asymmetry]] – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries), [[Tidal | + | Lacking: [[Tidal asymmetry]] – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries), [[Tidal bores]] |
− | Lacking : [[Storm surge]] - | + | Lacking: [[Storm surge]] - definition needs expansion |
− | |||
===Currents=== | ===Currents=== | ||
− | Articles measurement of currents : [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] , [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]], [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] | + | Articles measurement of currents: [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] , [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]], [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] |
Article [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport. | Article [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport. | ||
− | + | Definitions [[Longshore current]] , [[Rip currents]] need expansion: processes, practical formulas | |
− | More specific | + | More specific article needed on [[Wind driven currents]] (Ekman theory), |
− | Lacking : [[Density-driven currents]] | + | Lacking: [[Density-driven currents]] |
− | Lacking : | + | Lacking: article on [[Turbulence]] |
Article [[Coriolis acceleration]] | Article [[Coriolis acceleration]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Articles [[Bedforms and roughness]], [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]] | ||
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Articles [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]] , [[Estuarine circulation]] , [[Salt wedge estuaries]] | Articles [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]] , [[Estuarine circulation]] , [[Salt wedge estuaries]] | ||
+ | (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity] and [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion])) | ||
Expand definition of [[Stratification]] – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing | Expand definition of [[Stratification]] – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing | ||
− | + | Article [[Ocean – shelf-sea interaction]] | |
− | + | Lacking: [[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]] | |
− | Article on mixing and dispersion | + | Article on marine mixing and dispersion processes: [[Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea]] |
− | Articles on oil spills : [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] , [[Oil spill monitoring]]. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention ( | + | Lacking: [[River plume dynamics]] |
+ | |||
+ | Article on mixing and dispersion in the nearshore: [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Articles on oil spills: [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] , [[Oil spill monitoring]]. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill]) | ||
===Flood risk=== | ===Flood risk=== | ||
− | Article [[Chances and risks]]. Lacking : General article on [[Flood risk]] | + | Article [[Chances and risks]]. Lacking : General article on [[Flood risk]], [[Risk management strategies]] |
− | |||
− | |||
− | + | Article [[Extreme storms]] | |
− | Lacking : [[ | + | Lacking: [[Extreme event analysis]] - Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period |
− | Articles [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]] , [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]] | + | Articles [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]], [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]] , [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]] |
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[[Sediment]] - update article with links to specific topics | [[Sediment]] - update article with links to specific topics | ||
− | Lacking : [[Sediment classification]] - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive | + | Lacking: [[Sediment classification]] - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive |
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Articles on sediment transport measurement : see [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] with many subtopics | Articles on sediment transport measurement : see [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] with many subtopics | ||
− | + | Article [[Sediment Deposition and Erosion Processes]] | |
− | + | Article [[Dynamics of mud transport]] | |
− | + | Articles [[Sand transport]], [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]] | |
− | + | Lacking: [[Cross-shore sediment transport]] - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone | |
− | + | Article on littoral drift [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas | |
− | Lacking : [[ | + | Lacking: [[Boundary layer dynamics]] – introduction to boundary layer processes (current, waves, current + waves), [[Wave boundary layer and sediment transport]] |
− | Lacking : [[ | + | Lacking: [[Graded beds]] |
− | Lacking : [[ | + | Lacking: [[Sediment budget coastal systems]] |
− | + | Lacking: [[Current ripples and dunes]] , [[Wave ripples]] – formation processes | |
− | Lacking : [[ | + | Lacking : [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] – introduction to underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation, water quality. |
+ | (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/turbidity.jsp Turbidity]) | ||
− | Lacking : [[Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels]] | + | Lacking: [[Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels]] |
− | Lacking : [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, dune formation | + | Lacking: [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, dune formation. |
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Articles [[Classification of coastal profiles]], [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types | Articles [[Classification of coastal profiles]], [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types | ||
− | Lacking : [[Typology coastlines]] –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes, | + | Article [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohensive sediments; lacking : more specific article on [[Equilibrium coastal profile]] |
+ | |||
+ | Lacking: [[Typology coastlines]] –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes, | ||
[[Rocky shores]] – [[Rocky shore morphology]] – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc. | [[Rocky shores]] – [[Rocky shore morphology]] – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc. | ||
− | Lacking : [[Wave dominated coast]] | + | Lacking: [[Wave-dominated coast]], barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels. (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts] |
− | Lacking : [[Fluvial dominated coast]] , [[ | + | Lacking: [[Tidal lagoons]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] and [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons])) |
+ | |||
+ | Article [[Wave-dominated river deltas]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas]) | ||
+ | |||
+ | Lacking: [[Fluvial-dominated coast]] , [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Lacking: [[Macro-tidal coasts]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches] and [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches])) | ||
Article [[Gravel Beaches]] | Article [[Gravel Beaches]] | ||
− | Article [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]]. Lacking : [[Mud coasts]] – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana | + | Article [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]]. |
+ | |||
+ | Lacking: [[Mud coasts]] – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana, [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] | ||
===Estuaries=== | ===Estuaries=== | ||
− | + | Article [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples (incomplete article [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]]) | |
+ | |||
+ | Lacking: [[Rias]], [[Fjords]] | ||
+ | See also ([http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys]) | ||
− | + | Articles [[Estuarine morphological modelling]], [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]] | |
− | Lacking : [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation | + | Lacking: [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation |
− | Lacking : [[Estuary response to change]] - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation) | + | Lacking: [[Estuary response to change]], [[Impact of estuarine channelisation]], [[Tidal flat reclamation]] - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation) |
+ | (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics]) | ||
Article [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]] | Article [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]] | ||
− | Lacking : [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] | + | Lacking: [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] |
− | Article [[Mudflat]] - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology | + | Article [[Mudflat]] - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks]) |
+ | |||
+ | Article [[Mangroves]] (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration]) | ||
Articles on [[Salt marshes]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]] , [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]] | Articles on [[Salt marshes]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]] , [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]] | ||
− | + | Lacking: [[ICZM issues in estuaries]] , [[Coastal squeeze]] | |
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− | Lacking: [[ | + | Article on morphodynamic feedback processes : [[Stability models]] |
+ | |||
+ | Lacking: [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes and erosional embayments, links to specific articles, | ||
− | + | Article [[Beach Cusps]] | |
− | + | Lacking: [[Coastal barriers]] - coastal barrier formation, [[Breaker bar dynamics]], [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation | |
− | + | Articles on specific topics of morphodynamic modelling and analysis: [[Process-based morphological models]] , [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]] , [[Geomorphological analysis]] , [[Behaviour-based models]] , [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]] | |
− | + | Articles on morphological survey methods : [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]] , [[Data processing and output of Lidar]] | |
− | Articles on shoreline profile dynamics: | + | Articles on shoreline profile dynamics: [[Parametric equilibrium models]], [[Process-based modelling]] |
Articles on shoreline modelling : [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] , [[Process-based modelling]] | Articles on shoreline modelling : [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] , [[Process-based modelling]] | ||
− | Lacking : [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation) | + | Lacking: [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation) |
− | Lacking : [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation | + | Lacking: [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation |
− | [[ | + | Lacking: [[Beach-dune interaction]] – dune accretion, aeolian transport |
− | Lacking : [[ | + | Lacking: [[Reef systems]] |
− | Lacking : [[ | + | Lacking: [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] sandwaves, tidal ridges, shoreface-connected ridges |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
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Article on [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]] | Article on [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]] | ||
− | Lacking : [[Shoreline prediction]] – prediction of shoreline response to storms | + | Lacking: [[Shoreline prediction]] – prediction of shoreline response to storms |
− | Article on coastal erosion processes : [[Types and background of coastal erosion]] | + | Article on coastal erosion processes : [[Types and background of coastal erosion]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/beach_erosion.jsp Beach erosion]) |
Articles [[Bruun rule]] , [[Closure depth]] | Articles [[Bruun rule]] , [[Closure depth]] | ||
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===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change=== | ===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change=== | ||
− | Lacking : [[Sea level change]] - indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change | + | Lacking: [[Sea level change]] - indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change |
− | Lacking : [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating | + | Lacking: [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating |
− | [[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction | + | [[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic |
Articles on climate change impacts : [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]] , [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]]. Lacking is a general article [[Climate change impacts]] with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change | Articles on climate change impacts : [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]] , [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]]. Lacking is a general article [[Climate change impacts]] with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change | ||
− | Lacking : [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale | + | Lacking: [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale |
− | Lacking : [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]] | + | Lacking: [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]] |
− | Lacking : [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]] | + | Lacking: [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]] |
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General articles on coastal engineering : [[Hard shoreline protection structures]] , [[Protection against coastal erosion]] , [[Hard structures and structural erosion]] , [[Sand by-pass systems]] | General articles on coastal engineering : [[Hard shoreline protection structures]] , [[Protection against coastal erosion]] , [[Hard structures and structural erosion]] , [[Sand by-pass systems]] | ||
− | Articles on specific hard structures : [[Groynes]], [[Groynes as shore protection]] , [[Deteriorated groynes]] , [[Detached breakwaters]] , [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]] , [[Application of breakwaters]] , [[Floating breakwaters]] , [[Perched beaches]] , [[Seawalls and revetments]] , [[Overtopping resistant dikes]] | + | Articles on specific hard structures : [[Groynes]], [[Groynes as shore protection]], [[Deteriorated groynes]] , [[Detached breakwaters]] , [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]] , [[Application of breakwaters]] , [[Floating breakwaters]] , [[Perched beaches]] , [[Seawalls and revetments]] , [[Overtopping resistant dikes]] |
− | Articles on [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]] , [[Artificial reefs]] , [[Natural barriers]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]] | + | Articles on [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]] , [[Artificial reefs]] , [[Natural barriers]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]], [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]] |
− | Articles on [[Beach nourishment]] , [[Artificial nourishment]] | + | Articles on [[Beach nourishment]] , [[Artificial nourishment]] (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Sand_nourishments?rId=53 Sand nourishment]) |
Articles on [[Shore nourishment]] , [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]] Lacking: [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]] | Articles on [[Shore nourishment]] , [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]] Lacking: [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]] | ||
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Articles on dune management : [[Sand dune types - Europe]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]] | Articles on dune management : [[Sand dune types - Europe]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]] | ||
− | Lacking : [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change | + | Lacking: [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change |
− | Lacking : [[Resonance phenomena]] - dealing with seiches in harbours and basins | + | Lacking: [[Resonance phenomena]] - dealing with seiches in harbours and basins |
− | [[Dredging]] | + | Expand definition [[Dredging]] with overview article of techniques and impact. (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/The_beneficial_re_use_of_dredged_material?rId=52 Reuse of dredged material]) |
+ | |||
+ | Case study [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]] | ||
− | Lacking : [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials | + | Lacking: [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials |
− | Lacking : [[Sand mining]] – including marine aggregates | + | Lacking: [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] – including marine aggregates |
− | Lacking : [[Estuary engineering]] - deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment | + | Lacking: [[Estuary engineering]] - deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Managed_realignment?rId=51 Managed realignment]) |
− | Lacking : [[Tidal power]] | + | Lacking: [[Tidal power]] |
Article on marine wind farms : [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]] . Needs general article [[Marine wind energy]] and update of case studies | Article on marine wind farms : [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]] . Needs general article [[Marine wind energy]] and update of case studies | ||
− | Articles on wave energy : [[Wave energy converters]] [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]] | + | Articles on wave energy : [[Wave energy converters]], [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]] |
Revision as of 17:39, 6 December 2016
Contents
Introduction
This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.
For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
- pages of Wikipedia
- pages of the Australian coastal website http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/index.jsp
- pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/Publicaties/deltafact.aspx?pId=1739
Hydrodynamics
Articles on modelling : Hydrodynamic modelling , Modelling coastal hydrodynamics , How to apply models , Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)
Lacking: introduction to Hydrodynamic processes and equations
Waves
See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia Water waves
Article Waves introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
Lacking: Types of ocean wave - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy.
Lacking: introduction to wave theory: Linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory (See also Airy wave theory), Wave asymmetry and skewness
Lacking: Non-linear wave theories – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (See also Cnoidal wave)
Lacking: introduction to Wind wave generation (See also Wind wave)
Article on wave measurement : Waves and currents by X-band radar
Article on Wave transformation in the nearshore : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models
Lacking: Refraction and diffraction , Wave reflection , Wave-current interaction
Lacking: Swash – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping
Lacking: Wave runup, wave overtopping, wave shoaling (Tsunamis definition needs expansion)
Lacking: Wave impact
Lacking: Ship waves - Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
Article Statistical description of wave parameters needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
Lacking: Wave modelling - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
Lacking: Infragravity waves (Article Edge waves definition should be expanded)
Tides
Article Tide purely descriptive, needs expansion (see for example Theory of tides)
Lacking: Tides in the oceans
Article Tidal prediction needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
Article Tidal motion in shelf seas
Lacking: Tidal asymmetry – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries), Tidal bores
Lacking: Storm surge - definition needs expansion
Currents
Articles measurement of currents: Waves and currents by X-band radar , Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods, Use of ground based radar in hydrography
Article Currents introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport.
Definitions Longshore current , Rip currents need expansion: processes, practical formulas
More specific article needed on Wind driven currents (Ekman theory),
Lacking: Density-driven currents
Lacking: article on Turbulence
Article Coriolis acceleration
Articles Bedforms and roughness, Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries
Diffusion, dispersion
Articles Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries , Estuarine circulation , Salt wedge estuaries (See also Salinity and Reduction of saline intrusion))
Expand definition of Stratification – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing
Article Ocean – shelf-sea interaction
Lacking: Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas
Article on marine mixing and dispersion processes: Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea
Lacking: River plume dynamics
Article on mixing and dispersion in the nearshore: Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water
Articles on oil spills: Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution , Oil spill monitoring. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention (See also Oil spill)
Flood risk
Article Chances and risks. Lacking : General article on Flood risk, Risk management strategies
Article Extreme storms
Lacking: Extreme event analysis - Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
Articles Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management, Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands , Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast
Sediments
Sediment - update article with links to specific topics
Lacking: Sediment classification - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
Articles on sediment transport measurement : see Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas with many subtopics
Article Sediment Deposition and Erosion Processes
Article Dynamics of mud transport
Articles Sand transport, Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment
Lacking: Cross-shore sediment transport - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
Article on littoral drift Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
Lacking: Boundary layer dynamics – introduction to boundary layer processes (current, waves, current + waves), Wave boundary layer and sediment transport
Lacking: Graded beds
Lacking: Sediment budget coastal systems
Lacking: Current ripples and dunes , Wave ripples – formation processes
Lacking : Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum – introduction to underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation, water quality. (See also Turbidity)
Lacking: Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels
Lacking: Aeolian transport – from beach to dunes, dune formation.
Geomorphology
Geomorphology – expand definition to a general article linking to more specific articles
Geomorphological time scales and processes
Classification of coasts
Article Classification of coastlines deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal form elements (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development), barrier formation; effect of development
Articles Classification of coastal profiles, Coastal zone characteristics = introduction to different coastal types
Article Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohensive sediments; lacking : more specific article on Equilibrium coastal profile
Lacking: Typology coastlines –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes,
Rocky shores – Rocky shore morphology – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
Lacking: Wave-dominated coast, barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels. (See also Wave-dominated coasts
Lacking: Tidal lagoons (See also Wave-dominated estuaries and Coastal lagoons))
Article Wave-dominated river deltas (See also Wave-dominated deltas)
Lacking: Fluvial-dominated coast , Tide-dominated river deltas
Lacking: Macro-tidal coasts (See also Tide-dominated beaches and Tide-modified beaches))
Article Gravel Beaches
Article Characteristics of muddy coasts .
Lacking: Mud coasts – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana, Typology of mangrove coasts
Estuaries
Article Morphology of estuaries - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples (incomplete article Estuaries and tidal rivers)
Lacking: Rias, Fjords See also (Embayments and drowned river valleys)
Articles Estuarine morphological modelling, Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries
Lacking: Estuarine morphodynamics – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
Lacking: Estuary response to change, Impact of estuarine channelisation, Tidal flat reclamation - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation) (See also Alteration of hydrodynamics)
Article Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries
Lacking: Ebb-tidal deltas
Article Mudflat - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology (See also Tidal creeks)
Article Mangroves (See also Mangrove restoration)
Articles on Salt marshes , Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes , Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability
Lacking: ICZM issues in estuaries , Coastal squeeze
Coastal morphodynamics
Article on morphodynamic feedback processes : Stability models
Lacking: Rhythmic shoreline features – rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes and erosional embayments, links to specific articles,
Article Beach Cusps
Lacking: Coastal barriers - coastal barrier formation, Breaker bar dynamics, Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation
Articles on specific topics of morphodynamic modelling and analysis: Process-based morphological models , Data-driven models and statistical approaches , Geomorphological analysis , Behaviour-based models , Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics
Articles on morphological survey methods : Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction , Data processing and output of Lidar
Articles on shoreline profile dynamics: Parametric equilibrium models, Process-based modelling
Articles on shoreline modelling : Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions , Process-based modelling
Lacking: Coastal profile response to storms – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
Lacking: Shoreline planform – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see Parametric equilibrium models), shoreline rotation
Lacking: Beach-dune interaction – dune accretion, aeolian transport
Lacking: Reef systems
Lacking: Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas sandwaves, tidal ridges, shoreface-connected ridges
Coastal erosion
Articles on shoreline observation: Argus image types and conventions Argus video monitoring system Argus applications Argus video
Article on Data analysis and Statistical Approaches
Lacking: Shoreline prediction – prediction of shoreline response to storms
Article on coastal erosion processes : Types and background of coastal erosion (See also Beach erosion)
Articles Bruun rule , Closure depth
Articles Human causes of coastal erosion , Accretion and erosion for different coastal types , Typical examples of structural erosion
Article Natural causes of coastal erosion
Article Dune erosion
Long-term morphodynamics and climate change
Lacking: Sea level change - indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
Lacking: Quaternary geology - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating
Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic
Articles on climate change impacts : Effect of climate change on coastline evolution , Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves. Lacking is a general article Climate change impacts with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change
Lacking: Geomorphological modelling at geological time scale
Lacking: Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers
Lacking: ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology
Coastal engineering
General articles on coastal engineering : Hard shoreline protection structures , Protection against coastal erosion , Hard structures and structural erosion , Sand by-pass systems
Articles on specific hard structures : Groynes, Groynes as shore protection, Deteriorated groynes , Detached breakwaters , Detached shore parallel breakwaters , Application of breakwaters , Floating breakwaters , Perched beaches , Seawalls and revetments , Overtopping resistant dikes
Articles on Soft shoreline protection solutions , Artificial reefs , Natural barriers , Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs, Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering
Articles on Beach nourishment , Artificial nourishment (See also Sand nourishment)
Articles on Shore nourishment , Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal Lacking: Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands
Article Beach drainage
Articles on dune management : Sand dune types - Europe , Dynamics, threats and management of dunes
Lacking: Coastal defence options - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
Lacking: Resonance phenomena - dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
Expand definition Dredging with overview article of techniques and impact. (See also Reuse of dredged material)
Case study Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline
Lacking: Disposal of dredged materials – including fate of dredged materials
Lacking: Sand mining in shelf seas – including marine aggregates
Lacking: Estuary engineering - deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also Managed realignment)
Lacking: Tidal power
Article on marine wind farms : Offshore wind farm development in Germany . Needs general article Marine wind energy and update of case studies
Articles on wave energy : Wave energy converters, Wave energy converters in coastal structures