Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"

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Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
 
 
 
==Introduction==
 
==Introduction==
  
This article provides an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (April 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering. This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
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This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
  
The article also indicates missing topics (in red).  
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The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
 
Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.  
 
Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.  
 +
 +
For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
 +
* pages of Wikipedia
 +
* pages of the Australian coastal website http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/index.jsp
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* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/Publicaties/deltafact.aspx?pId=1739
  
  
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Articles on modelling : [[Hydrodynamic modelling]] , [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]] , [[How to apply models]] , [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]]
 
Articles on modelling : [[Hydrodynamic modelling]] , [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]] , [[How to apply models]] , [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]]
  
Lacking : introduction to [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]]
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Lacking: introduction to [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]]
  
  
 
===Waves===
 
===Waves===
  
See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves  
+
See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves]
  
 
Article [[Waves]] introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
 
Article [[Waves]] introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
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Lacking:  [[Types of ocean wave]] -  progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy.
 
Lacking:  [[Types of ocean wave]] -  progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy.
  
Lacking: introduction to wave theory: [[Linear wave theory]], [[Stokes wave theory]]  (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory )
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Lacking: introduction to wave theory: [[Linear wave theory]], [[Stokes wave theory]]  (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory]),  [[Wave asymmetry and skewness]]
  
Lacking: [[Non-linear wave theories]] – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave )
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Lacking: [[Non-linear wave theories]] – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave])
  
Lacking:  introduction to [[Wind wave generation]]  (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave )
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Lacking:  introduction to [[Wind wave generation]]  (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave])
  
 
Article on wave measurement : [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]]
 
Article on wave measurement : [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]]
  
Article on [[Wave transformation]] : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models
+
Article on [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models
  
Lacking : [[Refraction and diffraction]] , [[Wave reflection]] , [[Wave-current interaction]]
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Lacking: [[Refraction and diffraction]] , [[Wave reflection]] , [[Wave-current interaction]]
  
 
Lacking: [[Swash]] – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping
 
Lacking: [[Swash]] – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping
  
Lacking : [[Wave impact]]
+
Lacking: [[Wave runup]], wave overtopping, wave shoaling ([[Tsunamis]] definition needs expansion)
  
Lacking : [[Ship waves]] -  Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
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Lacking: [[Wave impact]]
  
Article on [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
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Lacking: [[Ship waves]] -  Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 +
 
 +
Article [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
  
 
Lacking: [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 
Lacking: [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
  
Lacking : [[Infragravity waves]] , [[Edge waves]] - expand definition
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Lacking: [[Infragravity waves]] (Article [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded)
 +
 
  
  
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===Tides===
 
===Tides===
  
Article [[Tide]] purely descriptive, needs expansion  (see for example https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides )  
+
Article [[Tide]] purely descriptive, needs expansion  (see for example [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides Theory of tides])  
  
Article [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific example
+
Lacking: [[Tides in the oceans]]
 +
 
 +
Article [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
  
 
Article [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]  
 
Article [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]  
  
Lacking : [[Tidal asymmetry]] – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries),  [[Tidal bore]]
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Lacking: [[Tidal asymmetry]] – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries),  [[Tidal bores]]
  
Lacking : [[Storm surge]] -  expand definition  
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Lacking: [[Storm surge]] -  definition needs expansion
  
Lacking : [[Tsunami]] –  - expand definition: shoaling, runup
 
  
  
 
===Currents===
 
===Currents===
  
Articles measurement of currents :  [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]]  , [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]], [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]]
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Articles measurement of currents:  [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]]  , [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]], [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]]
  
 
Article [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport.
 
Article [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport.
  
Expand definitions of [[Longshore current]] , [[Rip currents]] processes, practical formulas
+
Definitions [[Longshore current]] , [[Rip currents]] need expansion: processes, practical formulas
  
More specific articles needed on [[Wind driven currents]] (Ekman theory),  
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More specific article needed on [[Wind driven currents]] (Ekman theory),  
  
Lacking :  [[Density-driven currents]]  
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Lacking:  [[Density-driven currents]]  
  
Lacking : articles on [[Turbulence]] , [[Friction]]
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Lacking: article on [[Turbulence]]  
  
 
Article [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 
Article [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 +
 +
Articles [[Bedforms and roughness]], [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]
  
  
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Articles [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]] , [[Estuarine circulation]] , [[Salt wedge estuaries]]
 
Articles [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]] , [[Estuarine circulation]] , [[Salt wedge estuaries]]
 +
(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity] and [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]))
  
 
Expand definition of [[Stratification]] – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing
 
Expand definition of [[Stratification]] – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing
  
Lacking : [[River plumes]]
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Article [[Ocean – shelf-sea interaction]]
  
Article on marine mixing and dispersion processes: [[Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea]]. Article needed on [[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]].
+
Lacking: [[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]]
  
Article on mixing and dispersion in the nearshore : [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]]
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Article on marine mixing and dispersion processes: [[Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea]]
  
Articles on oil spills : [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] , [[Oil spill monitoring]]. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention (see also https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill )
+
Lacking: [[River plume dynamics]]
 +
 
 +
Article on mixing and dispersion in the nearshore: [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]]
 +
 
 +
Articles on oil spills: [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] , [[Oil spill monitoring]]. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill])
  
 
   
 
   
 
===Flood risk===
 
===Flood risk===
  
Article [[Chances and risks]]. Lacking : General article on [[Flood risk]]
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Article [[Chances and risks]]. Lacking : General article on [[Flood risk]], [[Risk management strategies]]
 
 
Lacking :  [[Extreme event]] -  storm surge plus high tide, rainfall, storm waves
 
  
Lacking :  [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
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Article [[Extreme storms]]
  
Lacking :  [[Risk management strategies]] - cost/benefit, mitigation
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Lacking:  [[Extreme event analysis]] - Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
  
Articles [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]] , [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
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Articles [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]], [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]] , [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
  
  
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[[Sediment]] -  update article with links to specific topics
 
[[Sediment]] -  update article with links to specific topics
  
Lacking : [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
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Lacking: [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
 
 
Article [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohensive sediments
 
  
 
Articles on sediment transport measurement : see [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] with many subtopics
 
Articles on sediment transport measurement : see [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] with many subtopics
  
Lacking : [[Sediment transport processes]] – processes of settling, sedimentation, erosion and practical formulas
+
Article  [[Sediment Deposition and Erosion Processes]]  
  
Lacking : [[Sediment transport formulas]] - transport by waves, currents, currents + waves, bedload, suspended load, slope effect, lag effects, rippled beds
+
Article [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
  
Lacking : [[Cross-shore sediment transport]] - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
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Articles [[Sand transport]], [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
  
Article on littoral drift  [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] , expand and update with recent formulas
+
Lacking: [[Cross-shore sediment transport]] - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
  
Lacking : [[Boundary layer dynamics]] – introduction to boundary layer processes (current, waves, current + waves), relation with sediment transport
+
Article on littoral drift  [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
  
Lacking : [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
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Lacking: [[Boundary layer dynamics]] – introduction to boundary layer processes (current, waves, current + waves), [[Wave boundary layer and sediment transport]]
  
Lacking : [[Non-cohesive sediment dynamics]] – graded beds
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Lacking: [[Graded beds]]  
  
Lacking : [[Bed roughness]]
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Lacking: [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
  
Article on cohesive sediment dynamics : [[Dynamics of mud transport]]  
+
Lacking: [[Current ripples and dunes]] , [[Wave ripples]] – formation processes
  
Lacking : [[Turbidity maximum]] – introduction to underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation, water quality
+
Lacking : [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] – introduction to underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation, water quality.
 +
(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/turbidity.jsp Turbidity])
  
Lacking : [[Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels]]
+
Lacking: [[Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels]]
  
Lacking : [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, dune formation
+
Lacking: [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, dune formation.
  
  
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Articles [[Classification of coastal profiles]],  [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types
 
Articles [[Classification of coastal profiles]],  [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types
  
Lacking : [[Typology coastlines]] –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes,
+
Article [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohensive sediments; lacking : more specific article on [[Equilibrium coastal profile]]
 +
 
 +
Lacking: [[Typology coastlines]] –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes,
  
 
[[Rocky shores]] – [[Rocky shore morphology]] – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
 
[[Rocky shores]] – [[Rocky shore morphology]] – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  
Lacking : [[Wave dominated coast]] - barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels
+
Lacking: [[Wave-dominated coast]], barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels. (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
  
Lacking : [[Fluvial dominated coast]]  , [[River deltas]]
+
Lacking: [[Tidal lagoons]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] and [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]))
 +
 
 +
Article [[Wave-dominated river deltas]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas])
 +
 
 +
Lacking: [[Fluvial-dominated coast]]  , [[Tide-dominated river deltas]]
 +
 
 +
Lacking: [[Macro-tidal coasts]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches] and [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]))
  
 
Article [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
Article [[Gravel Beaches]]
  
Article [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]]. Lacking : [[Mud coasts]] – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana
+
Article [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]].  
 +
 
 +
Lacking: [[Mud coasts]] – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana, [[Typology of mangrove coasts]]
  
  
 
===Estuaries===
 
===Estuaries===
  
Lacking : [[Estuary geomorphology]] - classification of estuaries -  stratified, well-mixed, salt-wedge, flood-dom, ebb-dom, bar-built, rias, fjiords ([[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] incomplete)  
+
Article [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples (incomplete article [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]])
 +
 
 +
Lacking: [[Rias]], [[Fjords]]
 +
See also ([http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys])
  
Lacking : [[Estuarine hydrodynamics and modelling]]
+
Articles [[Estuarine morphological modelling]], [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
  
Lacking : [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
+
Lacking: [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
  
Lacking : [[Estuary response to change]] - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation)
+
Lacking: [[Estuary response to change]], [[Impact of estuarine channelisation]], [[Tidal flat reclamation]] - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation)
 +
(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics])
  
 
Article [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]]
 
Article [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]]
  
Lacking : [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] - morphodynamics
+
Lacking: [[Ebb-tidal deltas]]  
  
Article [[Mudflat]] - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
+
Article [[Mudflat]] - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks])
 +
 
 +
Article [[Mangroves]] (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration])
  
 
Articles on [[Salt marshes]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]] , [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
 
Articles on [[Salt marshes]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]] , [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
  
Article [[Mangroves]]
+
Lacking: [[ICZM issues in estuaries]] , [[Coastal squeeze]]
  
  
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Lacking: [[Coastal barriers]] - coastal barrier formation
+
Article on morphodynamic feedback processes : [[Stability models]]
 +
 
 +
Lacking: [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes and erosional embayments, links to specific articles,
  
Articles on morphodynamic modelling and analysis: [[Process-based morphological models]] , [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]] , [[Geomorphological analysis]] , [[Behaviour-based models]] , [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
+
Article [[Beach Cusps]]
  
Articles on morphological survey methods : [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]] , [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
+
Lacking: [[Coastal barriers]] - coastal barrier formation, [[Breaker bar dynamics]], [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation
  
Lacking : [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to features and formation conditions of beach cusps, rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes and erosional embayments, links to specific articles
+
Articles on specific topics of morphodynamic modelling and analysis: [[Process-based morphological models]] , [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]] , [[Geomorphological analysis]] , [[Behaviour-based models]] , [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
  
Article on morphodynamic feedback processes : [[Stability models]]
+
Articles on morphological survey methods : [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]] , [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
  
Articles on shoreline profile dynamics:  [[Equilibrium profile]] , [[Parametric equilibrium models]] , [[Process-based modelling]]
+
Articles on shoreline profile dynamics:  [[Parametric equilibrium models]], [[Process-based modelling]]
  
 
Articles on shoreline modelling : [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] , [[Process-based modelling]]
 
Articles on shoreline modelling : [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] , [[Process-based modelling]]
  
Lacking : [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
+
Lacking: [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
  
Lacking : [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation  
+
Lacking: [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation  
  
[[Bedforms]] -  expand definition to full article on wave generated, tidally generated bedforms: ripples, megaripples, bars, dunes, sandwaves, tidal ridges, shoreface-connected ridges. Expand subtopics: large scale, small scale.
+
Lacking: [[Beach-dune interaction]] – dune accretion, aeolian transport
  
Lacking : [[Beach cusp]] - morphodynamics
+
Lacking: [[Reef systems]]
  
Lacking : [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation
+
Lacking: [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] sandwaves, tidal ridges, shoreface-connected ridges
  
Lacking : [[Beach-dune interaction]] – dune accretion, aeolian transport
 
 
Lacking : [[Reef systems]]
 
  
  
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Article on [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
 
Article on [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
  
Lacking : [[Shoreline prediction]] – prediction of shoreline response to storms  
+
Lacking: [[Shoreline prediction]] – prediction of shoreline response to storms  
  
Article on coastal erosion processes : [[Types and background of coastal erosion]]
+
Article on coastal erosion processes : [[Types and background of coastal erosion]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/beach_erosion.jsp Beach erosion])
  
 
Articles [[Bruun rule]] , [[Closure depth]]
 
Articles [[Bruun rule]] , [[Closure depth]]
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===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change===
 
===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change===
  
Lacking : [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
+
Lacking: [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
  
Lacking : [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating
+
Lacking: [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating
  
[[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction
+
[[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic
  
 
Articles on climate change impacts : [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]] , [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]]. Lacking is a general article [[Climate change impacts]] with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change
 
Articles on climate change impacts : [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]] , [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]]. Lacking is a general article [[Climate change impacts]] with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change
  
Lacking : [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale  
+
Lacking: [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale  
  
Lacking : [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]]
+
Lacking: [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]]
  
Lacking : [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
+
Lacking: [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
  
  
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General articles on coastal engineering : [[Hard shoreline protection structures]] , [[Protection against coastal erosion]] , [[Hard structures and structural erosion]] , [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
General articles on coastal engineering : [[Hard shoreline protection structures]] , [[Protection against coastal erosion]] , [[Hard structures and structural erosion]] , [[Sand by-pass systems]]
  
Articles on specific hard structures : [[Groynes]], [[Groynes as shore protection]] , [[Deteriorated groynes]] , [[Detached breakwaters]] , [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]] , [[Application of breakwaters]] , [[Floating breakwaters]] , [[Perched beaches]] , [[Seawalls and revetments]] , [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
+
Articles on specific hard structures : [[Groynes]], [[Groynes as shore protection]], [[Deteriorated groynes]] , [[Detached breakwaters]] , [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]] , [[Application of breakwaters]] , [[Floating breakwaters]] , [[Perched beaches]] , [[Seawalls and revetments]] , [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
  
Articles on [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]] , [[Artificial reefs]] , [[Natural barriers]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
+
Articles on [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]] , [[Artificial reefs]] , [[Natural barriers]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]], [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
  
Articles on [[Beach nourishment]] , [[Artificial nourishment]] ,
+
Articles on [[Beach nourishment]] , [[Artificial nourishment]] (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Sand_nourishments?rId=53 Sand nourishment])
  
 
Articles on [[Shore nourishment]] , [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]] Lacking: [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
 
Articles on [[Shore nourishment]] , [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]] Lacking: [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
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Articles on dune management : [[Sand dune types - Europe]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]  
 
Articles on dune management : [[Sand dune types - Europe]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]  
 
   
 
   
Lacking : [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
+
Lacking: [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
 
   
 
   
Lacking : [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
+
Lacking: [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
   
 
   
[[Dredging]] – expand definition with overview article of techniques and impact. Case study [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]  
+
Expand definition [[Dredging]] with overview article of techniques and impact. (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/The_beneficial_re_use_of_dredged_material?rId=52 Reuse of dredged material])
 +
 
 +
Case study [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]  
 
   
 
   
Lacking : [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
+
Lacking: [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
   
 
   
Lacking : [[Sand mining]] – including marine aggregates
+
Lacking: [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] – including marine aggregates
 
   
 
   
Lacking : [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment
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Lacking: [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Managed_realignment?rId=51 Managed realignment])
  
Lacking : [[Tidal power]]
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Lacking: [[Tidal power]]
  
 
Article on marine wind farms : [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]] . Needs general article [[Marine wind energy]] and update of case studies
 
Article on marine wind farms : [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]] . Needs general article [[Marine wind energy]] and update of case studies
  
Articles on wave energy : [[Wave energy converters]] [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
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Articles on wave energy : [[Wave energy converters]], [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]

Revision as of 17:39, 6 December 2016

Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:


Hydrodynamics

Articles on modelling : Hydrodynamic modelling , Modelling coastal hydrodynamics , How to apply models , Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)

Lacking: introduction to Hydrodynamic processes and equations


Waves

See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia Water waves

Article Waves introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves

Lacking: Types of ocean wave - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy.

Lacking: introduction to wave theory: Linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory (See also Airy wave theory), Wave asymmetry and skewness

Lacking: Non-linear wave theories – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (See also Cnoidal wave)

Lacking: introduction to Wind wave generation (See also Wind wave)

Article on wave measurement : Waves and currents by X-band radar

Article on Wave transformation in the nearshore : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models

Lacking: Refraction and diffraction , Wave reflection , Wave-current interaction

Lacking: Swash – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping

Lacking: Wave runup, wave overtopping, wave shoaling (Tsunamis definition needs expansion)

Lacking: Wave impact

Lacking: Ship waves - Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash

Article Statistical description of wave parameters needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction

Lacking: Wave modelling - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics

Lacking: Infragravity waves (Article Edge waves definition should be expanded)



Tides

Article Tide purely descriptive, needs expansion (see for example Theory of tides)

Lacking: Tides in the oceans

Article Tidal prediction needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples

Article Tidal motion in shelf seas

Lacking: Tidal asymmetry – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries), Tidal bores

Lacking: Storm surge - definition needs expansion


Currents

Articles measurement of currents: Waves and currents by X-band radar , Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods, Use of ground based radar in hydrography

Article Currents introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport.

Definitions Longshore current , Rip currents need expansion: processes, practical formulas

More specific article needed on Wind driven currents (Ekman theory),

Lacking: Density-driven currents

Lacking: article on Turbulence

Article Coriolis acceleration

Articles Bedforms and roughness, Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries


Diffusion, dispersion

Articles Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries , Estuarine circulation , Salt wedge estuaries (See also Salinity and Reduction of saline intrusion))

Expand definition of Stratification – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing

Article Ocean – shelf-sea interaction

Lacking: Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas

Article on marine mixing and dispersion processes: Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea

Lacking: River plume dynamics

Article on mixing and dispersion in the nearshore: Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water

Articles on oil spills: Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution , Oil spill monitoring. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention (See also Oil spill)


Flood risk

Article Chances and risks. Lacking : General article on Flood risk, Risk management strategies

Article Extreme storms

Lacking: Extreme event analysis - Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period

Articles Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management, Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands , Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast


Sediments

Sediment - update article with links to specific topics

Lacking: Sediment classification - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive

Articles on sediment transport measurement : see Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas with many subtopics

Article Sediment Deposition and Erosion Processes

Article Dynamics of mud transport

Articles Sand transport, Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment

Lacking: Cross-shore sediment transport - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone

Article on littoral drift Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas

Lacking: Boundary layer dynamics – introduction to boundary layer processes (current, waves, current + waves), Wave boundary layer and sediment transport

Lacking: Graded beds

Lacking: Sediment budget coastal systems

Lacking: Current ripples and dunes , Wave ripples – formation processes

Lacking : Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum – introduction to underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation, water quality. (See also Turbidity)

Lacking: Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels

Lacking: Aeolian transport – from beach to dunes, dune formation.


Geomorphology

Geomorphology – expand definition to a general article linking to more specific articles

Geomorphological time scales and processes


Classification of coasts

Article Classification of coastlines deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal form elements (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development), barrier formation; effect of development

Articles Classification of coastal profiles, Coastal zone characteristics = introduction to different coastal types

Article Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohensive sediments; lacking : more specific article on Equilibrium coastal profile

Lacking: Typology coastlines –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes,

Rocky shoresRocky shore morphology – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.

Lacking: Wave-dominated coast, barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels. (See also Wave-dominated coasts

Lacking: Tidal lagoons (See also Wave-dominated estuaries and Coastal lagoons))

Article Wave-dominated river deltas (See also Wave-dominated deltas)

Lacking: Fluvial-dominated coast , Tide-dominated river deltas

Lacking: Macro-tidal coasts (See also Tide-dominated beaches and Tide-modified beaches))

Article Gravel Beaches

Article Characteristics of muddy coasts .

Lacking: Mud coasts – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana, Typology of mangrove coasts


Estuaries

Article Morphology of estuaries - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples (incomplete article Estuaries and tidal rivers)

Lacking: Rias, Fjords See also (Embayments and drowned river valleys)

Articles Estuarine morphological modelling, Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries

Lacking: Estuarine morphodynamics – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation

Lacking: Estuary response to change, Impact of estuarine channelisation, Tidal flat reclamation - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation) (See also Alteration of hydrodynamics)

Article Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries

Lacking: Ebb-tidal deltas

Article Mudflat - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology (See also Tidal creeks)

Article Mangroves (See also Mangrove restoration)

Articles on Salt marshes , Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes , Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability

Lacking: ICZM issues in estuaries , Coastal squeeze


Coastal morphodynamics

Article on morphodynamic feedback processes : Stability models

Lacking: Rhythmic shoreline features – rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes and erosional embayments, links to specific articles,

Article Beach Cusps

Lacking: Coastal barriers - coastal barrier formation, Breaker bar dynamics, Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation

Articles on specific topics of morphodynamic modelling and analysis: Process-based morphological models , Data-driven models and statistical approaches , Geomorphological analysis , Behaviour-based models , Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics

Articles on morphological survey methods : Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction , Data processing and output of Lidar

Articles on shoreline profile dynamics: Parametric equilibrium models, Process-based modelling

Articles on shoreline modelling : Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions , Process-based modelling

Lacking: Coastal profile response to storms – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)

Lacking: Shoreline planform – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see Parametric equilibrium models), shoreline rotation

Lacking: Beach-dune interaction – dune accretion, aeolian transport

Lacking: Reef systems

Lacking: Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas sandwaves, tidal ridges, shoreface-connected ridges


Coastal erosion

Articles on shoreline observation: Argus image types and conventions Argus video monitoring system Argus applications Argus video

Article on Data analysis and Statistical Approaches

Lacking: Shoreline prediction – prediction of shoreline response to storms

Article on coastal erosion processes : Types and background of coastal erosion (See also Beach erosion)

Articles Bruun rule , Closure depth

Articles Human causes of coastal erosion , Accretion and erosion for different coastal types , Typical examples of structural erosion

Article Natural causes of coastal erosion

Article Dune erosion


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Lacking: Sea level change - indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change

Lacking: Quaternary geology - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating

Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic

Articles on climate change impacts : Effect of climate change on coastline evolution , Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves. Lacking is a general article Climate change impacts with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change

Lacking: Geomorphological modelling at geological time scale

Lacking: Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers

Lacking: ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology


Coastal engineering

General articles on coastal engineering : Hard shoreline protection structures , Protection against coastal erosion , Hard structures and structural erosion , Sand by-pass systems

Articles on specific hard structures : Groynes, Groynes as shore protection, Deteriorated groynes , Detached breakwaters , Detached shore parallel breakwaters , Application of breakwaters , Floating breakwaters , Perched beaches , Seawalls and revetments , Overtopping resistant dikes

Articles on Soft shoreline protection solutions , Artificial reefs , Natural barriers , Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs, Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering

Articles on Beach nourishment , Artificial nourishment (See also Sand nourishment)

Articles on Shore nourishment , Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal Lacking: Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands

Article Beach drainage

Articles on dune management : Sand dune types - Europe , Dynamics, threats and management of dunes

Lacking: Coastal defence options - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change

Lacking: Resonance phenomena - dealing with seiches in harbours and basins

Expand definition Dredging with overview article of techniques and impact. (See also Reuse of dredged material)

Case study Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline

Lacking: Disposal of dredged materials – including fate of dredged materials

Lacking: Sand mining in shelf seas – including marine aggregates

Lacking: Estuary engineering - deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also Managed realignment)

Lacking: Tidal power

Article on marine wind farms : Offshore wind farm development in Germany . Needs general article Marine wind energy and update of case studies

Articles on wave energy : Wave energy converters, Wave energy converters in coastal structures