Wave propagation
From Coastal Wiki
Definition of Wave propagation:
Progression and transformation of waves in time and space.
This is the common definition for Wave propagation, other definitions can be discussed in the article
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Notes
- The speed c of a wave propagating without frictional losses in deep water is given by the celerity c \approx \sqrt{g/k} = g/\omega where g is the gravitational acceleration, k=2 \pi / \lambda the wave number, \lambda the wavelength and \omega=kc the angular frequency. Deep water means: still water depth h much larger than 1/k. The dependency of the propagation speed on frequency causes wave dispersion.
- In shallow water (depth h much smaller than 1/k), the wave celerity is proportional to the square root of the water depth h (formula: c \approx \sqrt{gh}), thus not depending on the wave frequency.
- In shallow water, wave propagation is a strongly nonlinear process, leading to wave transformation and breaking.
- A wave group propagates at a smaller speed c_g than the constituent short waves. Wave energy propagates at the speed of the wave group.