Dispersion (waves)
From Coastal Wiki
Definition of Dispersion (waves):
In wave theory, dispersion is the phenomenon that the phase velocity of a wave depends on its frequency.
This is the common definition for Dispersion (waves), other definitions can be discussed in the article
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Notes
Wave dispersion implies that low-frequency (long-period) waves have a greater propagation speed than high-frequency waves. When strong winds generate a wave field in the ocean with a certain frequency distribution, the high-frequency and low-frequency waves will separate, with the low-frequency waves (swell) arriving onshore before the high-frequency waves.
