Difference between revisions of "Dispersion (waves)"

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|definition= In wave theory, dispersion is the phenomenon that the phase velocity of a wave depends on its frequency.}}
 
|definition= In wave theory, dispersion is the phenomenon that the phase velocity of a wave depends on its frequency.}}
  
For an explanation, see [[Shallow-water wave theory]].
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Wave dispersion implies that low-frequency (long-period) waves have a greater [[Wave propagation|propagation speed]] than high-frequency waves. When strong winds generate a wave field in the ocean with a certain frequency distribution, the high-frequency and low-frequency waves will separate, with the low-frequency waves (swell) arriving onshore before the high-frequency waves.

Revision as of 15:13, 28 March 2021

Definition of Dispersion (waves):
In wave theory, dispersion is the phenomenon that the phase velocity of a wave depends on its frequency.
This is the common definition for Dispersion (waves), other definitions can be discussed in the article

Wave dispersion implies that low-frequency (long-period) waves have a greater propagation speed than high-frequency waves. When strong winds generate a wave field in the ocean with a certain frequency distribution, the high-frequency and low-frequency waves will separate, with the low-frequency waves (swell) arriving onshore before the high-frequency waves.