Difference between revisions of "Wave run-up"
Dronkers J (talk | contribs) (Created page with "{{Definition|title=Wave run-up |definition=Landward incursion of a wave. Wave run-up is usually expressed as the maximum onshore elevation reached by a wave, relative to the...") |
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− | Wave run-up is an important parameter for assessing the safety of sea dikes or coastal settlements. Wave run-up is the sum of [[Shallow-water wave theory# Wave set-down and set-up|wave set-up]] and swash uprush (see [[Swash zone dynamics]]) and must be added to the water level reached as a result of tides and storm setup. | + | Wave run-up is an important parameter for assessing the safety of sea dikes or coastal settlements. Wave run-up is the sum of [[Shallow-water wave theory#Wave set-down and set-up|wave set-up]] and swash uprush (see [[Swash zone dynamics]]) and must be added to the water level reached as a result of tides and storm setup. |
By waves is meant: waves generated by wind (locally or on the ocean) or waves generated by incidental disturbances of the sea surface such as tsunamis, seiches or ship waves. Wave run-up is often indicated with the sympol <math> R </math>. | By waves is meant: waves generated by wind (locally or on the ocean) or waves generated by incidental disturbances of the sea surface such as tsunamis, seiches or ship waves. Wave run-up is often indicated with the sympol <math> R </math>. |
Revision as of 14:36, 8 February 2020
Definition of Wave run-up:
Landward incursion of a wave. Wave run-up is usually expressed as the maximum onshore elevation reached by a wave, relative to the wave-averaged shoreline position.
This is the common definition for Wave run-up, other definitions can be discussed in the article
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Wave run-up is an important parameter for assessing the safety of sea dikes or coastal settlements. Wave run-up is the sum of wave set-up and swash uprush (see Swash zone dynamics) and must be added to the water level reached as a result of tides and storm setup.
By waves is meant: waves generated by wind (locally or on the ocean) or waves generated by incidental disturbances of the sea surface such as tsunamis, seiches or ship waves. Wave run-up is often indicated with the sympol [math] R [/math].
For waves collapsing on the beach, the wave run-up can be estimated in first approach with the formula of Hunt (1959) [1],
[math]R = H \xi ,[/math]
where [math]H[/math] is the offshore wave height and [math]\xi[/math] is the wave similarity parameter,
[math]\xi = \Large\frac{S}{\sqrt{H/L}}\normalsize = S \, T \Large\sqrt{\frac{g}{4\pi H}}\normalsize , [/math]
where [math]L = g T^2/(2 \pi)[/math] is the offshore wave length, [math]S[/math] is the beach slope and [math]T[/math] is the wave period. The horizontal wave incursion is approximately given by [math] R / S[/math].
For more precise estimates of wave run-up see:
References
- ↑ Hunt, I.A. 1959. Design of seawalls and breakwaters. J. Waterw. Harbors Division ASCE 85: 123–152